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Routes in Amphitheater

Arms Control S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Blue Velvet S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Blind Prophet S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Blind Prophet Lite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Born to Crimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzzard's Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty Bingo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackin' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Henar Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Flyin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mild Mannered Secretary S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Henar S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Overhang Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pole Dancing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Single Handed Sailor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surry County Ethics T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syzygy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkey Shoot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,275 total, 47/month
Shared By: Bennett Harris on Mar 9, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet). Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits. This route is one of the best at Pilot.

Location

Ampitheater

Protection

7 bolts

Photos

I attempted to climb black and blue into the extension today and I ended up working out the moves on variation three and they went after a few minutes of working it. Ended up doing a long iron cross to the big crimp farther right and lower from where there hold broke (this move feels v6 or 7), matched it and bumped up to the sloper then finished it out. Climbing this sequence after Black and Blue feels 13c, but some confirmation is needed, send soon?? May 8, 2017
Joe Whittlesey
Durham, NC
Joe Whittlesey   Durham, NC
Red pointed this today. I think the cam in the crack is unnecessary, you are right above your last bolt. It would just help your feelings, besides couple moves and you are on the jug ledge. I know nothing of these variations, I just took the most obvious line following the bolts.

I agree the permadraws don't really add much safety, they just allow you to collect your gear if you can't finish the crux at the top. Nov 13, 2016
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
I think the 12b line is your variation #2. I think there used to be a 12c line similar to your #3 but holds have broken over the years and I am unsure that line still exists. Apr 7, 2015
I haven't seen any discussion about the three variations to the top of this route:

1. The variation around the left side of the arete at the top, using jugs and then traverse over to the anchors and clip. (Easiest)

2. The variation using thin crimps on the upper headwall, going straight up, traverse a little to the anchors and clip. (Was the most difficult IMO)

3. The variation trending directly towards anchors on crimps and a chossy side pull to some sloppy jugs that finish right at the chains. (read below)

Anyways... On Sunday I ripped off the chossy side-pull on Variation #3 and it hit me in the head on the way down. I tried it again without the hold and it seems a lot harder now. I know glue is an uncommon practice, but if anyone can't live without that hold on that silly variation... Then I still have the hold in my possession, feel free to glue it back on. I think it may actually be harder to go this way now without and created an interesting new sequence.


Apr 6, 2015
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Were these put in with the permission of the park? If not this is one of those things that could harm climber relations. May 28, 2014
ABG
Winston-Salem, NC
ABG   Winston-Salem, NC
The bolts were perfectly safe and not very hard to clean. There is no reason for the permadraws. May 27, 2014
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
How does the permadraw make it safer? Are the bolts poorly positioned? May 26, 2014
Graham Beck
Charlotte, North Carolina
Graham Beck   Charlotte, North Carolina
This route has new permadraws after the fourth bolt all the way up to the new permadraw chains. This makes one of my personal favorite hard routes at pilot safer and a lot more accessible to get all the way to the top. May 24, 2014
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.12b/c
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.12b/c
More sustained and a harder head wall crux than Mr. Henar. Less overall strength and power required. The runout exiting the dihedral seems a bit dangerous because of the bolt placement, which would surely have you swinging hard into the wall. That said the climbing through there is relatively easy. Jul 3, 2013
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
  5.12b PG13
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
  5.12b PG13
A half inch piece can protect the runout exiting the dihedral. May 19, 2012