[Hide Comment] Cruiser face climbing leads to a nice rest. Fun undercling moves to get under the roof, where a mean but well-protected crux awaits you. Everyone seems to do it a different way. Run out over easy ground above the crux. Nov 14, 2011

[Hide Comment] The key foot hold for some people's beta on this route, the one that protuded from the V shaped notch under the roof to the left, was broken a few months ago.

I was working the route on Sunday and tried smearing where the hold used to be. That beta will still go but after repeated appempts the foot hold kept crumbling under my foot. I reached out and with my hand broke off another part of the foot hold that was loose.

Now there is a hook type foot hold under the roof similar to the foot hold that used to be there. I'm not sure how much longer that foot will last though. Apr 30, 2012

[Hide Comment] Just climbed this route about a week ago and got stung by a bunch of wasps. My friend made it up without getting stung. I went after him and right before the second blot there was a little wasps hive. My knee bumped it and they swarmed me. I would avoid this route for a little while. Aug 24, 2016

[Hide Comment] Upper extension is not that bad and pretty juggy if you find the holds. Crux was between the bolt and anchor and definitely not as hard as the main OHHO crux although you may want to take a breather to get your strength back/heart rate down before you jump right on it. I recommend another piece of gear for just after the anchor starting the extension (options range from something small up to a red camalot) as falling off before clipping the extension bolt would send you hurtling back into the corner. If you don't find a jug (or at least a good finger bucket) keep searching. Cool bonus exposure and a short bit of climbing. Nov 27, 2017

[Hide Comment] Fun route!
One hard move.
Used a 0.4 cam.
Nut on the crux bolt was freely spinning. Tightened with a wrench. Feb 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] bolt at crux is loosely spinning. extension is awesome. rope drag is a bitch when cleaning. I lowered off extension to first anchor and re-cleaned the route. Classic for the area. Dec 16, 2019

[Hide Comment] For full value traverse right under the first roof, there’s a bolt there, not sure if got added or has always been there. Then for the anchor clip it with a double length runner and take it to the top. Doesn’t make the route any harder but definitely makes it a classic. For maximum style points don’t take the pilot mountain rest before the upper section. Aug 23, 2020

[Hide Comment] Can stick clip the bolt and pypass the pitons with a 16ft pole. Crux is awesome with a high right foot and a big move to a nice hidden jug. Placed an ok 0.4 C4 before clipping the second bolt, but a .5 or a nut would fit better. Be sure to extend this piece. Dec 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] I always placed some gear in the undercling flake, traversed out to clip the 2nd bolt and then back cleaned that piece. Dec 22, 2020

[Hide Comment] Those two pitons are looking a bit rough these days. Maybe we can get Bill out there to place a bolt to better protect those opening moves? It seems a bit silly to keep those archaic pins since it's listed as a sport route. Oct 12, 2021