Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,594 total · 42/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


100 Opinions

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Description

In the true spirit of Pilot Mountain, this once spicy trad lead has been neutered into a 10-bolt sport climb.

Nice little ledges and crimps lead you up the face, past a small seam and a flake to the ledge. Pull up onto the face above the ledge and head for the top. Consistent 5.7, with great moves and good exposure for Pilot.

Location

Starts about 10 feet right of Vegomatic, at a small overhang.

Protection

Sport- 10 bolts and anchors at the top.

Trad- Bring a standard rack. The opening moves are protected, but then there isn't much available until you reach the ledge system about 40-50 feet up. Falling here isn't really an option. 5.7 X.

Photos

Eduardo Ramirez
Columbia, SC
Eduardo Ramirez   Columbia, SC
vimeo.com/28345938 Sep 7, 2011
Bill Webster
  5.7+
Bill Webster  
  5.7+
Now a 10 bolt sport route. Probably the best route at Pilot. Feb 28, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.8
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.8
^ Agreed. A great lead climb with the new bolts added. Mar 12, 2014
Matt Thomas  
 
Bring 12 draws and a 60 meter rope. Amazing climb. Mar 15, 2014
There is a loose flake that serves as a rather critical hold on the lower section. Would gluing it for stability be legal for NC ethics standards? Apr 6, 2014
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
^ I used this flake, my 6'3" partner didn't have to. Pull down not out. Mar 25, 2015
Dylan B.  
 
TR'ed this yesterday with a 25 lb. pack on to top out at the end of the day; made it pretty strenuous. Lots of fun, though. May 18, 2015
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
A great climb, uniquely long for pilot. I gave a 5.8 because the crux (right below the overhang) is too tricky to really consider 5.7 material.

If you are top-roping, use the Jomeokee trail to save on stairs and time. May 31, 2015
Adam Fleming
Moab
  5.7
Adam Fleming   Moab
  5.7
Climbing this route and belaying from the top is a great alternative to walking up the hill at the end of the day. Sep 12, 2016
Dave Pfurr  
 
Almost missed this one. Last climb of the day. A few polished foot-holds, but a great line. True to the grade. Apr 18, 2018