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Routes in Three Bears

Any Major Dude S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Any Minor Dude TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Baby Bear TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creative Germs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dude on the Corner TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Every Major Dudette TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gentle Ben TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldilocks TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Honey Pot TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Howdy Dude TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mama Bear TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papa Bear TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,824 total, 35/month
Shared By: Javier L on Mar 15, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Sustained, steep, and crimpy climbing takes you past 3 bolts to a roof. Traverse right under the roof and clip into the 4th bolt before you fire up the roof crux. Mantle up and climb to the chains. There is one more bolt to protect you but you won't need it on the dusty 5.3 moves to the top.

Location

Starts on the right side of the orange wall under the rusty pitons. Left of Honey Pot.

Protection

Bolted sometime in late 2011 or early 2012. 5 bolts + chained/ring anchors. No need for TRing this route anymore but if you do, watch out for the swing into the tree.

Photos

A.J. Rimes
Charlotte, NC
A.J. Rimes   Charlotte, NC
Yesterday, we were climbing this route on Top Rope and we noticed that the 4 bolt up(right after the huge shelf is loose. I am unfamiliar with the re-bolting process, but I have contacted the CCC in hopes they can fix it or contact someone who can. If anyone else knows who I can contact to get this climb reboltted, please let me know! Apr 14, 2017
A.J. Rimes
Charlotte, NC
A.J. Rimes   Charlotte, NC
Just climbed this route Saturday, August 13th on TR. The chains that previously reached over the top face for lead have been removed due to heavy rust. The bolts are also have minor rust but use your best judgment before climbing. Due to the top bolts being so far away from the edge of the top of the climb, a set of quick draws will likely not do the job for your anchors. Aug 15, 2016
nbrown
western NC
nbrown   western NC
Fun route, but definitely not pg 13 with the bolts.

If you take a close look right of the crux bolt, you can see where a drilled mono pocket used to be (before it was filled-in with putty).

Someone might wanna take a look at the crux bolt. Might be a good place for a glue-in in the future because of the softness of the rock up higher on the pitch (see picture). Feb 9, 2013
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
New bolted anchors at edge of rim, with chains for lowering. Five new bolts on face. First is quite low, and second is quite close, for no grounding hazard. Fourth bolt is left, instead of right, of the crux move, without the previous need for gear below it. However, it is still the same difficulty, with the same tree hazard on TR. See at ClimbPilotNC.us

. Jan 11, 2012
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Just led it yesterday. My new favorite at Pilot. The pitons that give this route the alternate name of "Five Pins" seem fairly solid. Placed two cams in the horizontal under the roof to back up the final piton, which is the only one that has real big fall potential. Pulling the roof is a doozy of a crux. Great movement below, and climbing over rusty pitons gives Five Pins the kind of spice that is hard to come by at Pilot. Nov 14, 2011