Type: Trad, Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,404 total · 27/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

Climb the obvious boulder start left of Devil in the White House and right of Ethics in Bondage (bolt protects the boulder start to the Ethics route).

Follow the bolts on the face that lead to the two small roofs to a bolted anchor.

Location

Left of the popular Devil in the White House and right of Ethics in Bondage (Ethics has the low bolt protecting it's boulder start).

Protection

If you are a solid 5.10 onsighter, then you can climb this with no gear to the first bolt (think high-ball boulder problem). Otherwise bring some gear to protect under the first bolt.

Photos

Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
Bill Webster, in coordination with the Park, has replaced the top anchors for this route.
. Jul 4, 2012
Paul Hutton
Kansas City, MO
Paul Hutton   Kansas City, MO
Intimidating, but definitely worth tying in! Moderate jugs with a few great confidence-boosting sections! Could be considered for the 10 range! Apr 6, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10
Seems easier than Devil in the White House. Jul 1, 2014
Reid S
 
Reid S  
 
Really cool movement on this one. In terms of protection--you'll realize this after you give it a burn, but the first bolt that protects the bouldery start offers no real protection, so don't bother. Better off with a spotter. Also, between the second and third bolt is run-out to the extent that it's a guaranteed ground fall, so if you're a little shaky in the 11-range, bring a piece to set in the horizontal crack. A C4 .5 will do ya. Mar 19, 2018
Joshua McMillan
Fayetteville, NC
 
Joshua McMillan   Fayetteville, NC
 
Really enjoyed this one! Some of the moves felt a little harder than DITWH, but the route felt way easier to RP due to the multiple no-hands rests. Used a #1 and a .5 cam in the horizontal for the little run out section. Four stars for Pilot! Sep 24, 2018