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Routes in The Dihedrals

Ankles Away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atrophy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Foster Child S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kids With Guns S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Narcissism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pillsbury S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Twist and Shout S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,320 total · 39/month
Shared By: Kate Mittendorf on Nov 15, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

This new route is a long slab climb that starts just right of Pillsbury in the Dihedrals area. It follows a bolted line up to a large ledge and then continues on up to the top. The hardest individual move is at the bottom, but up near the tree it can get wet and muddy, so watch out on rainy days. Surely will be a classic for the grade once it sees more traffic.

Location

Go to the dihedrals and find the obvious features that mark the start of Pillsbury (the two big flakes around to the right from the dihedrals). This is the slab climb before you enter the flat face that precedes the bunker.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

Jeremy Y
5.8+
Jeremy Y  
5.8+
Fun route, the hands run out a little near the 3rd bolt and getting over the last bulge, and noobies will have to resist grabbing the very conveniently placed tree, but its a fairly solid route. After rain seeps some on the bolts, but not where your hands and feet are going. Feb 17, 2014
Mark Nunes
  5.8+
Mark Nunes  
  5.8+
Another super-fun recent addition to Foster Falls--and a great warm up route. I've heard it called a 9, but compared to Twist and Shout or Ankles Away, I would keep this one at 8+. It's far from being run out, but that move along the ledge to your next clip might give a new leader a bit of anxiety.... May 12, 2014
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
 
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
 
Definitely 8+ if Ankles Away is still considered a 9. Not nearly as aesthetic as some of the other routes nearby. Sep 21, 2015
Michael Dom  
 
My guess is that this was one of the first bolted lines here. It follows an obvious path. Dec 22, 2015
Darren Josey  
 
What a fun lead, totally heady once you get under that silly little tree--don't blow that clip as you lean out to the right. A future classic for sure, don't miss this one.
May 15, 2016
Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
 
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
 
Nice warm-up option to take some pressure off Ankles and Twist. Not nearly as nice and aesthetic as the other moderates here, but worth a cruise. Mar 20, 2017
Daddy Long Legs
Mail
  5.9
Daddy Long Legs   Mail
  5.9
Contrary to some others here, both self + partner found the crux section of this a little more difficult than Ankles Away (both have a mix of easy and fairly challenging technical moves).

I enjoyed it a lot. Just stopped by to say: If you're a noob planning for your "first lead" - might want to have some alternatives listed too. Aug 8, 2018

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