Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Flerx, Gary Beil 1991
Page Views: 1,871 total · 14/month
Shared By: MauryB on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Easy, ledgy holds lead to tougher climbing up high, with some balancy slab-esque moves.

Location

On the face to the left of Rico Suave Arete. This route climbs across the large flake that cuts across the face.

Protection

5 bolts + anchor

Photos

Jacob Sustrich
  5.11a
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.11a
Much more fun than the single star would make it seem. First three bolts aren't memorable but the top is great Sep 6, 2016
sammcdona2
Irvine
 
sammcdona2   Irvine
 
Huge run out at the top. One of my friends fractured his arm taking a big fall near the anchor. Nov 8, 2016
BrianWS
  5.11a
BrianWS  
  5.11a
Sorry to hear about your friend's fracture - sounds like he was given a hard catch (spiked), because there are no ledges or other features to collide with on route, unless he made it all the way down to the first or second bolt. If that is the case, he should be swatting his belayer in the balls with his good hand.

The bolts get spaced at the top and there is a slight swing to the fall, but it is by no means runout -- especially if climbing sport at the New. An attentive belay and SOFT catch are needed, not unlike any other route on pure vert or less than vertical terrain. Nov 8, 2016