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Routes in Rico Suave Buttress

Good Old Days, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grit and Bear It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Louisiana Lou and the Tickler of Poon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not on the First Date S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nude Brute S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Out of the Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Preparation H S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rico Suave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Thoughts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totally Tammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trouble in Paradise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Flerx, Gary Beil 1991
Page Views: 1,693 total, 14/month
Shared By: MauryB on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


76 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Easy, ledgy holds lead to tougher climbing up high, with some balancy slab-esque moves.

Location

On the face to the left of Rico Suave Arete. This route climbs across the large flake that cuts across the face.

Protection

5 bolts + anchor
BrianWS
  5.11a
BrianWS  
  5.11a
Sorry to hear about your friend's fracture - sounds like he was given a hard catch (spiked), because there are no ledges or other features to collide with on route, unless he made it all the way down to the first or second bolt. If that is the case, he should be swatting his belayer in the balls with his good hand.

The bolts get spaced at the top and there is a slight swing to the fall, but it is by no means runout -- especially if climbing sport at the New. An attentive belay and SOFT catch are needed, not unlike any other route on pure vert or less than vertical terrain. Nov 8, 2016
sammcdona2
Irvine
 
sammcdona2   Irvine
 
Huge run out at the top. One of my friends fractured his arm taking a big fall near the anchor. Nov 8, 2016
Jacob Sustrich
  5.11a
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.11a
Much more fun than the single star would make it seem. First three bolts aren't memorable but the top is great Sep 6, 2016