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Routes in Rico Suave Buttress

Good Old Days, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grit and Bear It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Louisiana Lou and the Tickler of Poon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not on the First Date S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nude Brute S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Out of the Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Preparation H S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rico Suave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Thoughts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totally Tammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trouble in Paradise S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 1,218 total, 14/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

5.11 climbing up to the 3rd bolt. From there pull a powerful bouldery move up to a good clipping stance for bolt 4. Take a quick rest, and power through 2 more bouldery sections past an undercling block and another long pull to a good crimp. One final pinch/hand jam move gets you to easy ground for the final two bolts. Given 13a in the book, but IMO its a bit harder than that.

Location

About 40 feet past Pockets of Resistance. Start off an elevated ledge in a corner.

Protection

7 bolts, rusty 2 ring anchor.

Photos

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Everyone knows that 13b is the hardest grade that exists at the NRG, followed closely by 12b. Can't be doling that out to any old climb, otherwise it would be the Red. Jun 9, 2017
Pnelson    
Haha, Lee, Nick Duttle disagrees, he thought it was super hard 13b. This is Paul, by the way! Jun 9, 2017
Lee Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lee Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I would give this route more of a 13a rating. Its only got 2 cruxes and I doubt its 13b in the new guidebook. Jun 9, 2017