Jplotz > Comments

Oct 24, 2026 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle Old Gray Mare 5.8 ● Fun fact Jeromy has the first ascent of this pitch. He was 3 y/o at the time. View Comment
Oct 21, 2026 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle Old Gray Mare 5.8 ● This pitch is very deserving of its own anchor View Comment
Oct 18, 2026 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Hobo Gulch Homegrown 5.10a ● Fantastic pitch by AJ! View Comment
Oct 18, 2026 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Hobo Gulch Shakin' The Bacon 5.10c/d ● Terrible bolt locations. Marc Could have put a little more thought into critical stances for clips. Bolt li… View Comment
Jul 27, 2026 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Lower Castle Smut Aid C2 PG13 ● This description makes no sense. Where are you claiming it is? To the immediate left of the Fault? Or the… View Comment
Jul 27, 2026 Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Aasgard Sentinel Descent options from Acid Baby & Valkyrie. Pink line takes you to the plateau, and red line is a short cut. Orange lines with X's are dead ends. With permission from Jade Littlewood ● The right hand X is definitely not a "dead end". That's the gully we descend each time. Low angled and full… View Comment
Jun 18, 2025 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle Rainbow Connection 5.11c/d PG13 ● As I understand it-and I could be wrong-the rating of a climb is based on an onsight lead. So PG13 is enti… View Comment
May 19, 2025 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 5.11d R ● The flake is fine. I just climbed this pitch yesterday, twice, and probably 8 times this spring already. It… View Comment
Apr 30, 2025 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Snow Creek Wall Psychopath 5.11a ● A little shaky POV I made of the Psychopath pitch. Don't watch if you want the onsight. youtu.be/SuPec… View Comment
Nov 2, 2024 Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Sunshine Wall > (c) King Pins Red M&Ms 5.12a ● The new anchor is bullshit and changed the route, and needs to be moved higher. Putting the Anchor at its c… View Comment
Oct 6, 2024 Central-E Casca… > … > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle > Nose, of Jello Tower (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c) Lichen and chalk color The Nose, of Jello Tower ● I would move the blue line an inch to the left to reflect where the route goes. View Comment
Oct 4, 2024 Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Dragontail Peak Dragons of Eden 5.12a ● Just want to add a note for the approach. I'd recommend hiking Asgard a little higher, past where you nee… View Comment
Jul 12, 2024 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Snow Creek Wall Hyperspace 5.11a ● I think it's either/or. Both options are doable. I've always finished on top of the chockstone to the righ… View Comment
May 26, 2024 Central-E Casca… > … > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle > Canary (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c) You can build a gear anchor in the crack and give your leader some protection starting P2 with a locking draw. I used a 0.5, 2 & 3 cam for the anchor. ● Let's just call that 'psychological protection ' Even with that setup a lead fall would still be no bueno. View Comment
May 26, 2024 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Snow Creek Wall Iconoclast 5.10c ● @Micah Hoover... There's only been that one lone bolt, two if you count the useless two bolt anchor about… View Comment
Apr 4, 2024 N America > … 1 > Okanagan > Skaha Bluffs > Fortress > Grooves The Real Special Forces 5.11a ● If you rely on chalked holds to guide you through cruxes, best of luck to ya on this one. Every possible… View Comment
Sep 16, 2023 Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > B. El Capitan > 2. Southwest Face The Nose 5.9 C2 ● Just a quick heads up. The right hand anchor bolt at the base of the Great Roof has significant flex to it… View Comment
Aug 19, 2023 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9 ● As of 8/19, I can emphatically say that the hornet nest is alive and active. I climbed up to the stuck cam… View Comment
Apr 26, 2023 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle Hangdog 5.11+ ● Just led this again recently. What a great route. Thoughtful but solid pro. Hard moves through a well-pr… View Comment
Mar 27, 2023 Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Sunshine Wall > (c) King Pins Stems and Seeds 5.11a ● You are doing yourself a disservice if you don't top out this pillar and instead, bail on to the Hakuna anc… View Comment
Mar 27, 2023 Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Sunshine Wall > (c) King Pins Never Forget Your Friends 5.11a ● If you climb the left arete only, it feels solid .11 Bolts are easily within reach whichever side you ch… View Comment
Dec 20, 2022 Central Region > * Ice, Mixed, &… > Banks Lake Ice Climbing Bombs Over Old Baghdad WI5 ● Good Goddess. Whatever. I think the real offense here is the assumption that there's climbable ice in… View Comment
Sep 9, 2022 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle MF Overhang 5.10d ● Hey whoever placed the unwelcomed protection bolt on this route, we'd love to know who you are in order to… View Comment
May 20, 2022 Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 5. Higher Cathedral Rock Northeast Buttress 5.9+ PG13 ● Grading this climb is so irrelevant. 5.14c? 5.2? Pick a number and promptly forget about it. Why? Because… View Comment
Nov 13, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Midnight & Noon… > Midnight Rock ROTC 5.11c ● This crack has it all. Fingers, to hands, tight hands. Even a short squeeze move or three thrown in for g… View Comment
Sep 21, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Snow Creek Wall Hyperspace 5.11a ● Soooo...you're giving a difinitive opinion on Hyperspace without having climbed Hyperspace. Interesting.… View Comment
Aug 14, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle Angel Dreads 5.11- PG13 ● Funny! Who's going to FA Damnation Dreads now?! View Comment
Jul 18, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Dragontail Peak This, My Friend 5.10a ● Climbing CBR yesterday, we noticed a new and large rock scar as indicated in a photo I manipulated. Arrow… View Comment
Jul 2, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon Castle Rock ● Hey Joe! There are much friendlier crags in Der for first multi pitch experiences than Castle Rock. I kno… View Comment
Jun 26, 2021 S Idaho > City of Rocks > King on the Throne > King on the Throne -… Double Cracks 5.10 ● 5.10b with a 5.10d start. Ryan is spot on with that assessment. Great pitch and lesson in body tension and… View Comment
May 8, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek Eight Mile Area ● Where is Smorgasbord Crag? This should be included for this area. The climbs are really good. View Comment
May 8, 2021 Central-E Casca… > … 1 > Eight Mile Area > Eight-mile Butt… > Eight-Mile Butt… > Buzzbomb Area Swingline 5.10c/d ● Why isn't this crag under an "Upper 8 Mile Buttress" Heading? This crag is worthy of its own header. View Comment
May 4, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Pearly Gates Easy Pickins 5.10b ● No way those opening moves are 5.10a. 5.10c would be more appropriate. And it's more than a one move wonder… View Comment
Apr 29, 2021 Central-E Casca… > … > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle > MF Direct (5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c) John Stoddard styling it! Larry Kemp image! ● Such a classic shot of a fantastic pitch of climbing! View Comment
Apr 29, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area Pearly Gates ● I'm not sure why Pearly Gates gets lumped in with "Snow Creek Wall Area" instead of just being a named crag… View Comment
Apr 12, 2021 Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Purina & Careno… > Purina Crags One Eye 5.11b ● I would echo Conor's comment. Not bringing gear for the finishing moves would commit you to a no-fall situa… View Comment

1 of 5

Jplotz > Comments

Join the Community! It's FREE