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Routes in Snow Creek Wall

Edge of Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Iconoclast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mary Jane Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orbit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Outer Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RPM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
RPM (2nd pitch early exit) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Slabs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mean Hargis, Tom Hargis 1971
Page Views: 9,252 total, 118/month
Shared By: Tod Bloxham on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Iconoclast is a near classic; it has some interesting cruxes that are mostly well protected while maintaining fairly easy climbing on a spectacular wall. Most of the climb shares pitches with Hyperspace while exiting the Iconoclast corner/dihedral system to the right for the Shield (Hyperspace continues up for two more pitches). The exposure on the Shield is wild as you roam around slinging chicken heads and a few sparce bolts.

The start of Iconoclast begins after climbing the first two pitches of Remorse (typical and described below) or RPM.

Remorse:
Begin directly below the roofs that form the underside of Two Tree Ledge (you will be standing on the trail just to the left of the small scrub trees that are at the high point of the base of the wall).

P1- 45m+ - 5.6 - Climb easy 4th class ledges and corners to a 4th class ledge system that angles up to the left. The ledge system ends 20' below a small bush in front of a large flake that typicallly has many slings around it. Climb the right groove up and traverse left to the bush/flake.

P2- 25m+ - 5.8 - The next pitch traverses left all the way to the Psychopath ledge; start with some groove and face climbing up left aiming for the undercling flake; work your way back down the flake and traverse until you are forced into a balancy no hands traverse to more cracks; continue left along a rounded ledge (that works better for hands than feet) and finish with a mini crux up to the Psychopath ledge. Belay either at solid cracks and tree prior to the ledge proper, or continue across the gravelly ledge to the tree on the far side.

These can be climbed as one pitch with a 70m rope, or some very easy simulclimbing for 20+ feet (for the second) until the lead can gain the Psychopath ledge and set a belay.

Iconoclast:
Many people will climb the Pyschopath crack as a variation from here.
P3- 35m - 5.8+ - Around the Corner: Traverse out left (one bolt) and around the corner on some easy but exposed face climbing until you reach a crack; continue up the crack until ledges and cracks above the Pyschopath crack.

P4- 50m - 5.10a - The Roof Pitch: Follow the cracks/corner up to a excellent hand crack corner roof (a short fun move over); continue up alongside the block of doom; a solid belay is possible at the top of the block of doom (in cracks to the left of the block).

Be wary of the block doom as it is HUGE and seems to be detached and ready to release. The rockfall appears to be from 2008

P5- 45m - 5.10c - The Dihedral Pitch: Pull a second roof directly from the belay and follow up and over into a corner ledge that leads to the dihedral. An interesting (short) traverse down puts you under a dirty looking dihedral (it climbs clean), work up through secure but pumpy moves of the dihedral (good pro) (alternatively the right side face of the dihedral goes at 5.11a); continue up easier terrain to a two bolt belay.

P6- 50m - 5.10c - Transition to the Shield: Follow the corner up to the tree (or work a crimp/ledge ladder out left that leads back into the corner tree); head right climbing the face up around the corner (one bolt and sparse/small pro); don't forget to look over/around the corner for the chicken head saviors; finish up the face of the Shield through easy chicken head terrain (two bolts spaced wildly apart and maybe a slung chicken head) to a two bolt belay at a tree.

P7- 25m - 5.7 - The Mini Dihedral: Follow a short but beautiful little left-facing dihedral with a 2" crack in the back of it that leads directly to the left most end of Library Ledge; two bolt belay.

Most parties will follow the last two pitches (68 meters) of Outerspace from hear.

P8- 55m - 5.10b A0 - Continue up the 5.10b slab climbing (sparse? bolts) from the left side of Library Ledge to a bolt ladder. (I have not climbed this pitch so beta is second hand)

Location

Approach Snow Creek Wall via the Snow Lakes Trail. Stay on the trail for ~1.5 miles, until you just enter the trees (parallel to the wall). A trail down through the woods leads to a log crossing on Snow Creek, and up to the wall at the base of P1. A windstorm from the winter of 2010/2011 obliterated the trail proper for a few hundred feet on either side of the creek, follow the path of least resistance (look for rock cairns and cut branches through/on the maze of logs)

The walkoff from the top is to the left or you can rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection

Medium Rack to 3";
1 set of nuts
doubles of cams #.5 to #2
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
5.10+
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
5.10+
P5 was tough and if 10+ is near your limit the pro getting up the dirty dihedral will feel a bit lackluster and sparse. Very strong moves.

Mainly posting to say we found a bolted anchor at the top of P5, which was good because I had to get to work. We climbed with double 60s to facilitate bailing if the need arose, so I can only say with double 60s there are numerous rap stations on the way down that put us climbers left of where the route started. No hijinx necessary, just straightforward raps. Aug 22, 2016
The rappel follows the route's anchors with one exception - P4 (10a) has no anchor, so there is a dedicated rap anchor left of the route, about 27m below the end of P5.

If you stop at every good anchor, the rappel lengths from Library Ledge to Psychopath Ledge are 17, 30, 27, 45, 18. Combining looked like it would work.

If all you have is one 70m rope, there is a bush with slings about 10m above the bottom of the 45m rappel. The bush is small, so I would have everybody but the last person bypass the bush by doing a single-strand rappel. If you don't trust the bush but have 20m of cord, reepschnur is an option.

From Psychopath Ledge: 60m gets you to trail, 50m gets you to 3rd class. 10m gets you to a semi-permanent anchor on nuts, from which another 35m probably gets you to 4th class. I would not advise a reepschnur rappel from the ledge, but it should work well from the nuts anchor 10m lower. Jul 29, 2016
P3 - 35m - run-out .9 slab around the corner, scariest part of the climb for me.
P4 - 40m - mostly very easy, goes fast; 2" pro for the roof.
P5 - 40m - numerous 10- moves with decent rests in between.
P6 - 30m - getting from the bolt to the crack 7' above was my crux. The spot that takes good pro is some distance up the crack. The bottom of the crack was easy to reach, but it's 10mm wide and only 10mm deep. I made do with an abysmal medium DMM walnut that was body-weight at best, a guy we ran into recommended brass nuts. The Shield part is very run out and most of the chicken-heads don't take slings well, but the climbing is definitely within 5.7.
P7 - 17m - I thought 5.8 rather than 5.7 (not that it matters at that point).

P7 was the only place we used our #3 camalot, and I suspect it was optional even there. Jul 29, 2016
brandonia
  5.10c
brandonia  
  5.10c
P6 has a small but really good crack for pro about 7' above the first bolt, so your well protected when you transition to the shield, then the chicken heads are there and although its run-out, its 5.7 climbing max. the first bolt on the shield that i saw (only one i saw) was closer to the left edge than expected, about 30' up, nice and shiny, fwiw. learn the one handed slip knot for those chickens, or girth 'em!! psycho is definitely worth it, agreed techy, but not too difficult. Sep 29, 2014
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 


The 5.10c move onto the shield on pitch 6 is very committing. You get one bolt to protect you, but must pull a couple balancy awkward moves to the next protection opportunity well above and to the right of the bolt. Blowing any of these moves will send you on a swinging fall back onto the lower angled face below you. And do not underestimate the "easy" climbing on the chickenheads once you pull around onto the shield. There are serious consequences should you fall before you reach the bolt midway up this pitch. Don't go into this pitch expecting the easy chickenheads you climbed on Outer Space. It's much steeper than O/S, and the path not entirely intuitive.



Nov 9, 2013
drsoc
 
drsoc  
 
The first two pitches (Remorse) are surprisingly fun (and would be a good alternative start to Outer Space)! Note that there were wasps at the top of P1 by a fixed piece (on 8/26/13). Aug 29, 2013
MorganH
 
MorganH  
 
The Psychopath variation is really fun, not particularly hard, but the crux is techy and tricky.

I would recommend continuing past the block of doom about 25' to the base of the dihedral on P4 if you've got a 70m. The belay will be more comfortable with better pro and the belayer will be able to see their climber.

I would also link P6 & P7 together, take a #2 & #3 C4 to protect the mini dihedral. We didn't find the two widely spaced bolts on the face before the belay at the tree, but there were a couple of nut and cam placements to supplement the bolts, and the climbing was super easy after turning the corner onto the sheild. Jun 4, 2012