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Routes in Snow Creek Wall

Edge of Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Iconoclast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mary Jane Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orbit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Outer Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RPM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
RPM (2nd pitch early exit) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Slabs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 430 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Don Gordon, John Rupley, 1958 FFA: Fred Beckey, Charles Bell, 1961
Page Views: 436 total, 17/month
Shared By: Don MacKenzie on Sep 26, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Kramar's guide calls this a "polished looking route." I would clarify that in many places, it doesn't just look polished, it is polished. Which is somewhat unexpected, given that it doesn't seem to get a lot of use.

P1 (160') Start up the blocky, dirty corner and follow it past the first tree with rap slings about 50' up. (Optional belay). Continue up past a couple of slippery but easy moves to a second tree, and belay.

P2 (140') Angle up and left on easier ground with poor protection to gain a left facing corner. Climb the corner past progressively trickier moves to gain a large sloping ledge, and set a belay below a short vertical wall split by a crack.

P3 (120') Climb the vertical wall and continue up a brushy corner system, passing a large horn. A short distance above, move up and right over a tricky bulge, then up an easy groove before exiting right onto the Country Club Ramp.

Location

The route starts to the right of the white-streaked slab, which is itself to the right of the start of Outer Space. Look for a crooked tree, which may have rap slings, about 50 feet off the deck. The climb starts directly below this.

The route ends on the Country Club Ramp. Kramar's guidebook implies that you can link this up to Umbrella Tree (5.7) to top out. However we were unable to locate Umbrella Tree and chose to rap the route instead of topping out. It took 6 raps to the ground with a 60 m rope. You might do it in fewer raps with two ropes, but the risk of getting a rope caught would be significant.

Protection

There are some slings on the route, at the rap stations, but you should plan on bringing gear for anchors. We took a triple rack of cams from 0.75-3", plus a set of nuts, and a single set of smaller cams. This was probably overkill, but did make life easy with the long pitches and gear anchors. The route appears to see little traffic and you may want to bring some extra tat for reinforcing rap stations.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
It is slippery because it is a huge waterfall throughout the winter season, probably for at least a few thousand years. Jun 2, 2016
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
 
Don MacKenzie   Seattle, WA
 
My recollection is that the gear for the 5.7 moves was ok, but there may be some 5.5-5.6 moves with less than ideal protection. There is a little loose rock on this route, and the cracks often contain some dirt or moss. Sep 28, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Very nice description for this route, thanks.

About how hard is the PG13 part? Sep 27, 2015