Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, of course, and Ron Nicoli - 1960
Page Views: 70,066 total · 435/month
Shared By: jonah on Feb 2, 2006 with improvements by David Kirchoff and 1 other
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Probably the most popular route in Leavenworth. Starts at the base of Snow Creek Wall and follows fantastic features up through the main shield to the top. This can be crowded, but it's a good place to chill and look at the view. Pretty easy to identify this route on the wall, because of the long, well-cleaned crack splitting the upper headwall. Follow that crack down to a ledge with a big cedar growing out of it. The regular start is the ledge/dihedral system about 80 feet right and 100 feet down from the end of that ledge.

p1/2: An easy corner/scramble to a ledge. From the ledge, traverse down and left to the huge ledge with the big tree; you'll probably have to do a little easy simulclimbing to do this as one pitch.(5.7). There's also several fun variations starting further left that are a bit harder, but would allow you to pass a really slow party on the first pitch.

p3: From the ledge, either head up a steep crack with juggy flakes (some are a bit hollow) or start from the left up a dihedral. Either way, you end up at a roof. Step out to the right (this is airy and fun, with great pro) and follow the crack out right until it heads up again. Be careful of drag. Belay on a nice sloping ledge. (5.9)

p4. Head up and left on an easy slab peppered with knobs toward a left-facing dihedral. Get into the dihedral (crux of this pitch), top out, and traverse left to another ledge. Watch out for rope drag on this, too. Longer than it looks. (5.8).

p5. The money pitch. Go up the obvious crack that splits the shield. One of the most enjoyable pitches in the world, I think. You will giggle the whole way up. It's 130 feet long (?). You can jam in any of the bomber, perfect jams along the way, or if you get tired of that, step onto the stair-like knobs peppering the face. Sublime. And it ends on a perfect ledge with a separate crack to set an anchor. (5.7)

p6. Keep following the crack. A little "bouldery" crack move gets you off the ledge, then it's cruiser jamming to the top. Getting all the way to the top in one pitch from here will stretch a 60m rope. You may have to stop on the slab to bring up your second before you actually hit the top and trees. Don't sweat it, though. There's room for gear everywhere. (5.9)

From here, there is a rap route, or scramble down the gullies on the left (as you're facing the wall). The descent sucks. Stay in the gully a bit longer than you think you need to before heading back toward the wall, or you will end up on higher ledges near Orbit, etc.


Cams up to a #3 camalot with doubles in hand size will sew this puppy up. Rack o' nuts and some long slings. Sensible shoes for the descent.


It would be great to have more info about that rap route on the site-- it's the first I've heard of it. Feb 2, 2006
All I know is you can rap Iconoclast with 2 60s, if slings are in place. Haven't done it myself, though. Anyone out there rapped it? Feb 3, 2006
Dave Wise  
Slight correction to the above description: Pitch 4 is a right facing dihedral rather than left facing.

Stellar route!! Well worth the approach and the descent. Mar 4, 2007
We didn't think the descent was particularly horrible. No fun, but not too long and not life threatening. My partner led the last pitch, and we simul-climbed for a while to get him to the top. He was stuffed butt-first into a bathtub, giving me a hip belay (it's okay, we do that all the time). Behind him was a mountain goat billy! He hung around watching us for half an hour or so, but never approached us to mooch or threaten. Very cool. Apr 19, 2007
Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
5.9 seems like a bit of a stretch for the final pitch. I guess the first few moves are, but the rest of the pitch is 5.7, no more than 5.8. Beautiful stuff! Jul 11, 2007
Drew Peterson
Drew Peterson  
Amazing route, great location, and don't forget that once you get to the top of the cliff you can hike (5-10 minutes) to the very top of the cliff and get a great panorama of the area. The decent wasn't all that bad; but I was very glad when it was over. Beautiful Alpine route that shouldn't be missed. Aug 13, 2007
anybody willing to divulge some information on variations of outer space? or submit other routes on the formation? Mar 8, 2008
Derek Kiehn
Spokane, WA
Derek Kiehn   Spokane, WA
Snow creek wall has over 16 routes on it ranging from .8 to .11c. You should pick up Viktor Kramar's Leavenworth Rock 2nd edition, worth the money, with 1000 climbings in the area Mar 14, 2008
Sam Adams
Sam Adams   Knoxville
We did this route and followed the first three pitches of Remorse. I thought it was a very good alternative to what the entrance pitches had to offer on Outer Space. The second pitch of the alternate on Remorse had a very nice and balancy 5.8 undercling.

Regarding the walk down as opposed to the rap. We walked off and it only took about 30 minutes. Not an easy walk off, but you'd be hard pressed to rap down that quickly I think. Oct 8, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Watch you head on the knobs, I almost knocked my self out. Hit my head so hard I don't remember when I did this route, just with my cousin who is not really a climber. Oct 9, 2008
Jesse Davidson
san diego, ca
Jesse Davidson   san diego, ca
When I did this route I did a nice direct start. 5.6 scrambling leads into a dihedral directly below the belay at the bottom of the third pitch, with one 10b or so move (with a cam at your chest) at the top. Great start to an even better climb. you do not want to do the descent in your rock shoes, like I did Mar 12, 2009
Goran Lynch
Oakland, CA
Goran Lynch   Oakland, CA
Amazing, amazing route! We did this on (roughly) Aug 20, 2010. A few notes:

1) Expect an hour on the snow lakes trail (at a leisurely pace - could certainly be done faster) before the turnoff and another 20-30 minutes to the base of the wall. The herd path to the base of the cliff starts maybe 30ft to the LEFT of the first stream crossing as you face the wall. It's certainly possible to wander around yourself and get up there, but using the trail makes things easier and better for the environment; if you cross the stream and go up and left, you'll find a relatively heavily trodden path.

2) The 5.9 crux traverse is solid 5.9. Nobody talks about it much, but there's some business to it, and that business involved pulling fairly hard on a thin, hollow flake. Solid 5.9, IMO, for sure - the gear's good, but if you're not a consistent 5.9 leader, expect difficulties.

3) The pitches on this route are LONG - we did this with a 60m rope, but having a 70m would have been nice for the first and last pitches. It's easy to miss the traverse left on the first pitch (I missed it, for one), and getting to a good belay ledge in that case happens at the absolute end of the rope with maybe 5 feet of simulclimbing. The last pitch can be hairy on length as well. My partner, shooting for the top, climbed past the top of the crack and onto a slabby section (easy climbing, no gear), and ran out of rope. With me standing just below the last pitch crux, he was able to get a couple of cams into a good seam. A 70m would have been hugely helpful here, especially if we hadn't had radios.

Rough pitch lengths, following the original Beckey description:

1st: 60m
2nd: (we did this in two thanks to some routefinding confusion) estimate it would be 50-55m
3rd: 40-50m
4th: 55m
5th: 50-55m
6th: 65m

While the total vertical gain on this climb may be 800ft, the total climbing distance is assuredly nearer to 1100ft. The 500 foot length listed here on MP is most definitely incorrect. Bring a 70 to make life easy, and given the pitch length and wind up high, consider bringing radios as well. Sep 2, 2010
Joshua Dreher
Bremerton, WA
Joshua Dreher   Bremerton, WA
I would have to agree. Just from rough rope lengths this climb ascends at least 700 ft with much more actual climbing length to it. DO NOT descend this puppy in the dark if it can be avoided. My fiancée and I got caught behind some slow parties and ended up getting to the top in the dark with only one headlamp. The rock cairns helped us get past the initial steep stuff but they eventually led us astray and we ended up way to high. We raped twice off of trees and that after some dangerous traversing. I had done Outer Space three times before but this was the first time in a few years. I knew to go lower than one thinks but without a good range of sight it was hard to tell where to head left. Sep 27, 2010
Climbed this yesterday via a pretty fun three-pitch semi-direct start. Pitch 1 - start about 60-70 feet left of the original start and angle up and left along ramps with occasional 5th class moves, headed in the direction of the prominent corner at the left margin of the roof under the left side of 2-tree ledge. About 12 feet right of the start of the corner there is a solid 2-bolt belay anchor with many slings. I think this is the first pitch of RPM, and the 5th class moves are maybe 5.8. With all the traversing the pitch ends up being 180 ft or so. Pitch 2 -- Traverse left and a little down into the corner -- 5.8ish with an ok cam behind a flake -- and then jam and layback up the beautiful 5.8 corner. At the top of the corner, instead of breaking right through the roof at 5.10 -- the line of RPM -- head left around the corner (a large knob appears for a foothold just when needed; use a double-length sling on your last piece in the corner) and hand traverse out along a line of juggy flakes. The flakes thin out into a crack which provides good gear, and then a spicy move (5.9/10a-ish) left on knobs leads to a sloping sandy ledge. Up and right a few moves to a better belay. 120 feet or so. Pitch 3 -- up a big flake into a corner, then up under or over a chockstone into a chimney at the left edge of 2-tree ledge. 5.4 or so. I think this joins up with Pitch 3 or Remorse. 70 feet. This variation allows you to climb the really nice RPM corner but escape the roof at a lower technical grade, and the airy traverses are a nice warmup for the very airy traverse right above 2-tree ledge. With all the traversing and belay exchanges, it probably takes longer than the original start, but allows for more actual rockclimbing. The rest of the route is stellar -- I thought the right-trending traverse off 2-tree was the highlight of the climb, even better than the 300 foot splitter above. May 15, 2012
Just did this route on June 12, 2012. Very crowded even for Tuesday, but great route. I'll add some beta here so I hope this helps:


Drive 4.2 miles up Icicle road to trail #1553 in a pullout on the left and park. Hike the main trail for about 30 minutes steep uphill and look for the obvious huge wall begin to appear across the valley and on the right. As you come parallel with this wall, start looking for a nice big cairn with a stick in it on the right. Once found, look for the next cairn on a log crossing the creek. Cross there, and follow cairns, and the trail to the base of "Outerspace".

Route (just the direct start):

We did the direct start, a nice, but committing 5.8 left traversing lead. P1 climb low 5th slabs to where you will need to start traversing left and belay here somewhere. P2 head left across a 5.7 slab to gain a flake undercling traverse (about 15 feet below the huge roof). Keep traversing left (5.8) until you can scramble up to the big ledge at the base of the left facing dihedral. P3 climb the dihedral (5.7) to a ledge at the base of the classic P4 right angling traverse. This is where the alternate easier start leads to from the right. You'll probably just following a line of climbers up this whole route anyway.


We rapped the route in 5 double rope rappels. First rap station is visible from the topout of "Outerspace" about 80 feet left and down the slab a bit. (I had someone belay me to it, but probably not necessary). As you rap, stay on the main head wall angling climber's right as you go. Eventually you'll reach a rap station at a small tree about 240' up the wall. You can either rap to the 5.0 slabs and downclimb the last 40', or look for another rap (I am told) about 40' below the small tree so you can reach the ground. Jun 15, 2012
Hans Bauck
Squamish, BC
Hans Bauck   Squamish, BC
Cool knobs. Sep 5, 2012
Thad Arnold
Thad Arnold   Oregon
From what I can see, the ledge listed in the description (I think it's called "2 tree ledge" in the guide) with the Cedar on it no longer has any trees on it, so don't look too hard for them.

The descent was well-cairned but not over-cairned when I was there last week, but the approach from the main trail was not well-cairned. May 23, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
A few notes on the original route...

To approach, take the Snow Creek Trail until directly across from the wall. Keep an eye down towards the creek - a well worn trail should make itself apparent before too long. Locate the line before you approach. You're looking for a long, white-worn splitter crack which runs down the shield on the top-middle-left part of the wall, then down and right to another white-worn traversing crack that goes down and left, then straight down to a big ledge with trees. You will approach this from just to the right of big dark gully.

The thimble berries are really exploding right now. We saw a young but solitary black bear gorging himself on them early in the morning, just off the trail. He gave us the most complacent of looks as we passed not twenty feet away.

Cross the creek over a log, and continue through bushes, then into the boulder field, across and over more logs, following cairns upwards to a dirt trail, which leads to some loose scrambling, and eventually the base of the wall. Locate the dihedral to the right of the gully. If you are scrambling for 100 feet up dirty ledges to a pine tree with a rappel sling, you're too far right.

The first pitch starts about 20 feet right of the big bush-filled garbage chute that comes down from the Tree Ledge. You can scramble the first 30 feet. From a nice ledge, start up the rampy dihedral. When you can see a tree above (it will probably have rap slings), at the end of the dihedral, setup a belay. Stop about 20 feet below the tree, at a small alcove. If you scramble, this pitch is about 45m long and is easy 5th.

Pitch two, move up a finger crack (5.7) to a ledge with two old bolts. Traverse along the slab, passing a big chockstone, heading towards the gap that separates the slabs from the big, obvious ledge to the left. Hop this gap, climb over more chockstones, walk along, and hop down onto the main ledge, with the obvious crack systems of pitch 3 above. Belay from nice cracks, with rap slings on a tree nearby. Close to 60m, little/no gear.

Pitch three, sweet climbing with mostly detached but seemingly solid horns and flakes. After you make the step right around the corner, BEWARE! The juggy flake is super-loose, flexes under body weight, and could go at any moment! If this goes, this pitch will probably bump up in difficulty. The pitch remains exposed, and ends at a sweet ledge with another tree (and rap tat).

Pitch four, up the slab, onto the small featured buttress with fixed piton, and then onto the slabby face with crack above. Try to minimalize placements here, and use long runners for any early pro (at least 1'; 2' for the slabby face). Make a long leftward traverse towards the dihedral and another fixed piton (no gear, easy). Grunt your way to the top of this and downclimb (5.8), or step left around it about half-way up (5.6, hard to see). Belay at a ledge below the hand crack... rope drag will probably be gnarly.

Pitch five, straight up. I used smaller stuff early, but didn't use anything smaller than 1.5" above that (even with sparse placements and six cams from 1.5-2.5"), and ran out about 30 feet from the top, but this is the easiest climbing on the pitch - lots of chicken heads, and less vertical.

Pitch six, bouldery move off the deck protected with thin stuff, but you can step further out to gain really big features. The difficulties end quickly, and you find yourself swimming up this beautiful crack. At one point you are forced to hand- and foot-jam for lack of features - FUN! With a 60m rope, you should belay at another tree.

Pitch seven, continue to the top. I placed one .75" cam before stepping up onto the super-easy knobby face, pulling an overhanging move on huge holds to the final slab, and belayed on a rock bench at the top.

We followed cairns all the way down, but must have lost them right as you reach the skirt of the base slabs, because we ended up having to do one short rappel off of tree roots after descending a narrow, loose gully. Maybe we should have gone right here. After making this rappel, we regained a vague trail, which dissipated into the bushes and scree, but we skirted the slabs and soon arrived at the approach trail. From top to the creek, probably two hours. Aug 3, 2013
DannyUncanny   Vancouver
The last two pitches make it all worthwhile. The third pitch of giant flexing flakes really adds to the pucker factor. Do your best not to pull out on them. If you do want to lever them with your body weight, try to move your belayer off to the side so they don't get crushed when you peel one of the big guys off. Sep 2, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
There are several approaches to 2 tree ledge (with no trees).
The original start up ledges and corner till it runs out at a bush and leaves you on a ledge where you have to down climb to a ledge with 1/4" rusty anchor, or better than that go up steep finger crack about 20' below old bolts.
The Remorse start is more in the grade and better climbing.
RPM is fun if you like steep 10b cracks.
Leaving 2 tree ledge there are 2 options. The original is on the left end with an old Bong, over near the bush with slings you can go straight up to the traverse, also 5.9.
At the top of pitch 4 when you finish the RFC there is a bolt that is helpful as a high directional when belaying the 2nd up at the base of pitch 5. Sep 17, 2013
I didn't think flake at the P4 crux was as bad as some make it out to be. I reefed on the thing with my 200lbs with little-to-no flex

The P5 splitter with chickenheads ranks among the top 5 pitches I have ever climbed. Simply amazing.

Linked P1-2 of the Remorse start with about 15' of simul climbing on a 60M. Done this way, it was still a full 6 pitches plus a short 30' pitch to top out. Nov 4, 2013
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
We lost about an hour on the approach to this so I figured I'd share what we learned (on the way out!).

The climbers trail off the hiking trail is not totally obvious. There were a lot of things that could be a trail or could just be some rocks. We ended up passing about 1/4 mile too far and found a great tree spanning the river to cross. This put us in the middle of a long bushwhack though.

The trail really is DIRECTLY ACROSS from the route. Where you descend off the hiking trail is a little rocky to start so it's hard to see there's a footpath there unless you're really looking for it.

We built a pretty large and obvious cairn there on our way out as of 6/28/14. Jul 16, 2014
Jamie Umbras
Dallas, TX
Jamie Umbras   Dallas, TX
We took a 70m rope and used just about all of it on P6. P5 was great big fun! Aug 7, 2014
John Van Sickle
Seattle, WA
John Van Sickle   Seattle, WA
Don't rely on a cairn to spot the point where the climber's trail breaks off from the main trail, as it may not be there. Look for a flat, one-meter-long, oval bare spot of ground a couple of meters off the main trail. From there the climber's trail winds through foliage and logs, so this bare spot is likely all you will see from the main trail. Oct 4, 2014
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Outer Space 500'? Really?! That's so off it's laughable. Plan on O/S actually being 800' to those unfamiliar with SCW and Outer Space. Feb 12, 2015
Also recommend a 70m rope. May 5, 2015
K. Carver
K. Carver   portland
Just finished this route last weekend... What a beauty! The cracks are cruiser if your jams are well seasoned. For my money P3 is where it's at! The moves more interesting, the crack more varied, and the exposure was awesome!

APPROACH- not easily seen from the hiking trail, but the big mossy cliffs were a dead give away. And they are directly across from SCW. Lots of fallen trees but if you're planning to climb SCW you'll have no problems with the trees.

Take a minute during the approach to identify the route from afar. ESPECIALLY the move left toward Two Trees Ledge. We did miss that, and lost about 45 minutes getting ourselves sorted.

Even though it was our first time on SCW and we had no problem following the descent (big thanks to the locals who likely keep that dialed). About the time I started to wonder if there would be a wrap around trail back to our bags, a very obvious exit appeared to our left. Mostly steep hiking with very little downclimbing. Jun 19, 2015
Stephen Burns
Stephen Burns   Coloardo
Very fun. Party in front of us knocked what amounted to a minor rock slide off two tree ledge that almost took out five people on the bottom, including us. As a reminder to all climbers, which seems silly to say, but it is REALLY important that you yell rock every time you knock a rock off! Luckily no one was hurt but it was awful close! Aug 9, 2015
There is a single bolt above the dihedral on P4. I didn't see it until I had started belaying my partner, but it would have saved me a ton of drag. Sep 28, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Maybe we did it wrong, but the "5.7 finger crack" at the beginning of P2 felt quite hard, I'd say comparable in difficulty to the 5.9 opening moves of P6. Oct 6, 2015
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
A DMM revolver biner (locker girth hitched on a sling) can really help cut down on rope drag on the start of the traverse of P3 and the bolt above the right facing dihedral. If you are doing the remorse variation start (described well in other comments) you can link P1 and P2 with a 70m rope and the drag isn't bad with the revolver at the traverse start. Without it the drag was horrendous.

Bring a 70 for this climb, it's so much nicer to top out the last pitch in comfort.

Also on P3, I'm reading all the comments about the "death flake". I know what people are talking about, but there is not reason to reef on it. Trust your feet, the friction is good. It doesn't flex on me. Apr 14, 2016
Tee Kay
Seattle, WA
Tee Kay   Seattle, WA
Perhaps we had route finding issues (definitely some of that), thought we did Remorse variation start, and got to end of our 70m right at the end of P1. Could not have linked 1 and 2. Also, Holy Tick season. Perhaps we were slow hiking but approach was closer to 2 hrs.
There are a fair amount of hanging rap stations all the way down, watch your rope when you get near Edge of Space. Rap took 2 hours including shenanigans. Down-hiked by moonlight! An amazing day, P5 and 6 are of course splitter crack land peppered with amazing chickenheads for dayyyys, but we giggled the whole way through the 5.awesome that makes up the 4th Pitch. Wandery knobby awesomeness as well.
Being the only people up there all day made it extra rad. Apr 20, 2016
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.9 PG13
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.9 PG13
Flexing death flex on pitch 3 still there as of 5/12/16.
Outer space is freaking radical. May 13, 2016
Climbed this on 5.27.16 on P3 ( crux pitch) at the start of the traverse the undercling flake is ready to go at any moment! Its not just the flex, but has that scary hollowing. -barely touched the thing and was pretty sure it was coming - it would be catastrophic if it goes as its s huge flake. Managed to dance around it with minimal use.

Also on P2 of remorse the traverse flake is super hollow - so beware.

The route has become s graveyard for gear - fix piece was at almost every crux May 27, 2016
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
This climb is sweet. P3 had a bunch of loose/hollow flakes throughout that are solid(ish) for now. You'll have to pull on some of the loose stuff eventually, so just be gentle.

I thought P4 was a freaking blast as well, wandering through slabby knobs then up into the corner...what a pitch!

Also, holy fixed cams. When I climbed this there were at least 4 #1 C4's and a bunch of other pro fixed throughout. Jun 7, 2016
For those not interested in the scramble off or the rappel, there's a non-technical and pleasant hike-off that returns via the Pearly Gates crag. Sep 12, 2016
David Bruneau
St. John
David Bruneau   St. John  
First 2 pitches are unremarkable - find another way up to the ledge. The headwall crack might be the best pitch of 5.7 I have ever done.

Descent is fine. Follow cairns down the first obvious gully. Sep 15, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
On May 25, 2017, a climber reported that crucial flakes at the start of pitch 2 or 3 (the crux traverse pitch) came off, making the route harder and possibly leaving behind loose rock. So, use caution on this pitch. May 31, 2017
Trent Vonich
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+ PG13
Trent Vonich   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+ PG13
Route is still doable following rockfall. More 5.9 moves are necessary than before, but I would say the overall difficulty still stays at 5.9 or 5.9+. Flakes remain loose and more rockfall could easily occur. PULL DOWN, NOT OUT on flakes. If a flake were to rip, it wouldn't threaten the belayer, but it could seriously hurt or kill a following party. Also, the 4th class descent from Outer Space is not bad. We beat a party down who was double rope rappelling.

Climbed 6 June 2017 Jun 7, 2017
Conor Clarke
Washington, DC
Conor Clarke   Washington, DC
Three quick bits of info: (1) Pitch three (crux traverse) remains totally climbable at 5.9 after apparent breakage, but there is still a good amount of crumbly rock. (2) It's possible, if barely so, to lead straight from pitch 6 (the second pitch up the mega hand crack) to the first rap anchor with a seventy meter rope. After the crack peters out, continue straight up on knobs near the left-facing corner for about 20 feet, then cut left on dirty knobs (very easy but very runout) until you hit the anchor. (3) I thought the raps (for a visiting climber with no other experience on this wall) were pretty confusing. There are anchors and bits of crappy tat all over the face, and plenty of opportunities for a rope to get stuck. But it's doable and seemed much preferable to the walkoff. The Blake Herrington topo has a rough guide to (most of) the rap stations that we relied on, and we did not die. (We had 70m plus tag line, but possible with double 60s.) Jul 22, 2017
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
Not sure where the flakes broke on the 3rd pitch, but it did not seem any harder than 5.9. That massive hollow death flake on the traverse scared the dickens out of me when I felt it flex. If it's your first time on the route, like it was for us, the flake isn't obvious, because it's so huge. Basically, it's the big feature above the horizontal that has a sort of undercling and also a positive lip on the left side. Don't even touch it! If it goes, you're both royally screwed. Other than that flake, outstanding pitch, and it only gets better on the upper pitches!

My beloved orange Metolius Ultralight Mastercam seems to have gone MIA somewhere on the first pitch of Remorse (5.8) variation - either dropped or the follower forgot to clean it. I would certainly repay in a 6-pack of your choice of craft brews if found and returned. Oct 29, 2017
West Jordan
Rockwood   West Jordan
In a conversation with Fred Beckey a few years ago, my friend told him he'd climbed his route Outer Space. His response was, "Oh nice job, that's a hard route. Except I climbed it with wooden blocks." Nov 2, 2017
Lars Teigen
Lars Teigen  
A video with some footage from each of the pitches on the route (original start). This was from a climb on 06/29/18. My partner and I thought the 3rd pitch felt more sustained than we expected but we didn’t see any flakes that felt super insecure on the traverse. Very fun climb!
youtu.be/ViCDSb5-mkY Jul 1, 2018
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
The first pitch starts after a 3rd or 4th class approach from the base of the rock to a clean corner. A tree appears to be at the top of the corner and a ledge. However, the tree is above the belay ledge. Climb the corner 5.4 to about 15 feet (3 meters) below the obvious tree at the top of the corner. If you climb to the tree, you will have to downclimb to the belay ledge. Instead to the left find a clean crack. Climb the crack 5.6 to the ledge with two bolts.
The second pitch is more or less level and remains level until close to the large ledge where the third pitch starts. It is mostly 5.0 or 5.1 on the traverse until the final up climb to the ledge where is slightly harder 5.2 or so. If using a 60m rope, you may have to simul-climb for the last few meters.

We felt that the start of the final pitch “a little boulder problem” 5.9 was the crux of the climb.

Unless you are familiar with the decent, it will take you about 4 hours to get back to the trailhead and the first two hours should be done in daylight. There is a nice bivy cave above the top of the climb (just big enough for two) and lots of open flat areas too. Between the top and the base of the rock, there are no good places to bivy. Sep 30, 2018
Ryan Locati
Ryan Locati   Bozeman
Consider the RPM start as a great option to add ~200 more feet of quality climbing to the already classic route. And if 10b doesn’t sound appealing there is the early exit variation the keeps the grade at 5.9. No sandbag Nov 25, 2018