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Routes in Snow Creek Wall
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Edge of Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hyperspace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Iconoclast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mary Jane Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orbit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychopath (Early Exit) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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RPM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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RPM (2nd pitch early exit) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Slabs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 13,502 total · 107/month |
| Shared By: | blakeherrington on Oct 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
In 2015 and 2016, there was a pair of golden eagles at Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
In 2015 and 2016, there was a pair of golden eagles at Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Hyperspace is a combination of various pitches on Snow Creek Wall, generally following the left side of the massive "Shield" formation. The climb is in between the two moderate classics, Orbit and Outer Space. Several minor variations exist.
The traditional start is RPM, a runout 5.10+ dirty slab. The more common start is Remorse.
P1 - 70m
P2 - 30m - 5.11a - The Psychopath pitch follows a nice finger crack off the left end of the belay ledge. This crack eats up small nuts and cams. After about 1/2 or 2/3 of the crack's length, a few small knobs appear on the left. Move onto these knobs, then from the top of these knobs, swing back right into the crack and up to the belay ledge. Alternatively, its possible to continue to face climb out left of the crack for the remainder of the pitch (5.7R).
P3 - 50m - 5.9 - Follow obvious cracks up a right-trending ramp and corner.
P4 - Step right from the belay (look down and note the massive fresh rock scar!) Follow thin flakes, slabs, and a corner upwards, with better than expected pro.
P5 - 40m - 5.10c - Follow the beautiful left-facing corner, past a small tree and bolt (which would be used to link into Outer Space).
P6 - 40m - 5.10d - There are two main corners/chimneys.Eventually be in the rightward one, although both are initially climbable. The left one leads to a sticker bush, move rightward before this point. From the top of the chimney system, face climb leftward (often fixed gear) and make a few desperate and physical moves upward into a flaring/cramped stance (The Pressure Chamber). Face holds on the right wall allow one to stem wildly rightward across the overhang, and reach and thin finger crack, and then a much better positive layback flake. Above this spot, follow the left-facing corner for 25' (5.10a) and then traverse left on a hidden foot ledge to comfortable belay.
P7 - 30m - 5.10a - Traverse left to the end of the foot ledge and follow the crack up to a roof.
Descend to the left (walkoff) as for Outer Space.
The traditional start is RPM, a runout 5.10+ dirty slab. The more common start is Remorse.
P1 - 70m
P2 - 30m - 5.11a - The Psychopath pitch follows a nice finger crack off the left end of the belay ledge. This crack eats up small nuts and cams. After about 1/2 or 2/3 of the crack's length, a few small knobs appear on the left. Move onto these knobs, then from the top of these knobs, swing back right into the crack and up to the belay ledge. Alternatively, its possible to continue to face climb out left of the crack for the remainder of the pitch (5.7R).
P3 - 50m - 5.9 - Follow obvious cracks up a right-trending ramp and corner.
P4 - Step right from the belay (look down and note the massive fresh rock scar!) Follow thin flakes, slabs, and a corner upwards, with better than expected pro.
P5 - 40m - 5.10c - Follow the beautiful left-facing corner, past a small tree and bolt (which would be used to link into Outer Space).
P6 - 40m - 5.10d - There are two main corners/chimneys.Eventually be in the rightward one, although both are initially climbable. The left one leads to a sticker bush, move rightward before this point. From the top of the chimney system, face climb leftward (often fixed gear) and make a few desperate and physical moves upward into a flaring/cramped stance (The Pressure Chamber). Face holds on the right wall allow one to stem wildly rightward across the overhang, and reach and thin finger crack, and then a much better positive layback flake. Above this spot, follow the left-facing corner for 25' (5.10a) and then traverse left on a hidden foot ledge to comfortable belay.
P7 - 30m - 5.10a - Traverse left to the end of the foot ledge and follow the crack up to a roof.
Descend to the left (walkoff) as for Outer Space.
Bishop, CA
Psychopath: I would avoid moving all the way left onto the knobs. Just grab the first knob with your left hand and keep climbing up. This avoids a barn door and awkward move back to the crack.
P4: We climbed the steep wall right of the corner. Great climbing. Protects well. Highly recommended. Use lots of long runners.
Pressure chamber: We climbed this in one long pitch to just below the final roof. I had terrible rope drag. Runner this pitch well too. Blake's description of the pressure chamber move is spot on. I'd go left side in for the move out of the chamber. Using the good face holds to reach out to the other wall. Don't try to squeeze. Practice your stemming before this route ya'll.
The "foot ledge" Blake describes is about 2 inches wide. It's about 7' below the final roof just left of the corner. It's very small. I found the belay is best here with a #2 Camalot and some medium/large nuts. Very exposed belay.
Gear: I never placed a #4 camalot and would not bring one again. Not to say you couldn't but I never needed it. One #3 seemed sufficient. I'd bring 3 .75's next time. It seemed like I always needed another. This route accepts bomber nuts. Bring a good size stopper rack. Tiny to big and lots of runners. Next time I'd bring 20 runners. Might seem like a lot but on the 40m pitches you'll be glad you've got them.
Best route I've done in Icicle creek. A great warm up for the Valley. Sep 11, 2010
seattle, wa
With that said, there is some beautiful climbing on this route, especially when adding the psychopath pitch. We followed Blakes description and recommend belaying just below the exit moves if 10d++ isnÂ’t your OS level. One recommendation is to brake-up the pitch after the death block into 2.
Never needed the #4, doubles of #2 and down, single #3, aliens work great. Lots of runners
Very sustained route, has full on alpine+index feel. Jun 3, 2013
Snohomish, WA
Seattle, Washington
The yellow wall isn't much harder than the corner and rocks. I would almost give that pitch a PG13 rating given the less than decent gear and loss rock/flakes in the upper half. Still thought it was great fun though. Be aware that the bolted anchors at top of P5 are there for a reason...
Route could definitely use some care, but not sure how to do that with the train of folks coming to this rock to climb outer space.
One final note. On approach pitch to the ledge from which the psychopath pitch starts, there is fixed cam with a orange thumb loop. Be careful clipping it, there is a wasp nest inside the crack... Jul 27, 2015
Boulder, CO
The cracks are dirty, the slabs are covered in lichen, and there is actually a fair amount of exfoliating rock to be found as well.
There are loose blocks all over this route. Do not take this lightly as they really are quite prevalent. As in, don't follow another party up, and be mindful of where you place your belayer for each given pitch. The 11b pitch is definitely dangerous. The loose looking blocks for the first few moves are not the problem, the flexing horns that make up the jug holds for the top 20 ft are the problem. I suggest avoiding this pitch all together.
Don't do the 70m pitch one as described. There's no reason to make delicate and insecure slab moves with 60 m of rope drag. Belay on a comfortable dirt ledge ~30 m up.
The pressure chamber pitch as described here is a very gear intensive pitch. Consider the hanging belay below the pressure chamber (which would gice the added benefit of splitting the rope in half to haul a pack) or consider placing sparse gear on the double crack/chimney section. There is a nice fixed stopper in the pressure chamber that helps the gear situation though.
No need for a #4 now that the flake has been pryed off the belay above the pressure chamber.
Overall, I thought there were 3 good pitches on this route, the rest were mediocre, inconsistent, loose, and dirty. One of the best multipitch routes in Washington eh? Jul 29, 2015
Leavenworth WA
Seattle, WA
Ferndale, WA
My "classic" rating comes solely from the Hyperspace pitches. Psychopath is a very cruxy but short 10c, got it first go on my third outing in 10 minutes. Indeed a pure face climb, use the one knob on the left but never move left. It is a fun, pleasant pitch, but somewhat unremarkable after Hyperspace. Tall people win here :O) Same goes for the "yellow" section of the fourth pitch, a very typical gym 10c, no need for wide stemming, I onsighted it. Plenty of choices for pro, I sat on the "night stand" to place!
The business, the fun and the essence of the line come from the three final pitches - Hyperspace proper. Do not let the ratings fool you, those approach "11"-s are nothing compared to what's next. The first pitch of Hyperspace proper is not a sandbag but a good 10c, a sign of things to come. Don't know where the 40m for the P6 comes from, perhaps a direct rappell length from the top of it to the tree at the beginning? There are no twin cracks as one would naturally imagine, Blake said chimneys - they are. The line draws you along the left side and transitioning right is not trivial - start looking for that right away. I woke up at the sticker bush and traversed right at that spot. The crack slowly widens into a huge chimney/chamber that saps your energy and eats gear - leave a #2 or #3 and a couple of medium cams for the PC. The huge chamber peters out, and spits you out, then widens into the Pressure Chamber (PC) - the crux: getting in, squirming through, exiting. So much is mentioned about the airy stemming above that, but the Chamber is the one hard and desperate. Once the Thank God fixed nut is clipped with a loooong sling and the Thank God handhold is used to exit the Chamber, look for good feet to the right, it is scary but not hard, stem, do not layback the thin crack. I placed green aliens and a small nut. Get to a sloping 2x2 ledge. It is not over yet, the "20 foot corner" above is stout too. It is a huge dihedral with a crack in the corner, but not a classic jam or layback, the gear is tricky, fall - very consequential. The "belay ledge to the left" is a 4 inch horizontal crack running to the edge of the left side of the dihedral, there is a very distinctive, concave depression for the anchor, save a #1 and #0.75 for this, but there are other options. Traversing from the dihedral corner to the horizontal crack is also not trivial and very dangerous because it is 10 feet out and a fall would slam you into the right wall. Balancy, no crimpers!!!! Again, tall people get it easy here.
Last pitch is the left corner of the humongous roof above, and it's only 10a, so should be no problem, right? Save a #0.75 and #1 for this!
Agree with the #0.75 comment, even 4 would not go to waste, but not 20 runners though :O) Only fixed gear is the nut in the PC.
Overall, the two pitches 5 and 6 make this climb, and they are stern, severe, and that's their beauty and the attraction in my view. 11b minimum. Aug 30, 2016
If there is any more pertinent info from me - the Hyperspace is definitely worth doing and repeating so exhilarating, addictive and satisfying it is! Sep 1, 2016
Squamish, CA
I would do P1 as one long pitch. Place thoughtful gear and use slings to avoid drag, it's not that bad. Will simul-climb a few feet.
P2 - stellar, takes good gear, fairly sustained
P3 - there is no "tree" to belay at, as Blake's book says. Continue up slab past the wide cracks to a giant bulge-y flake. Currently red webbing there.
P4 - avoid rope drag. really fun, sporty climbing on steep holds
P5 - felt a bit soft for the grade? Good for people with thin fingers.
P6 - pressure chamber is committing. felt more .11b. managed to go straight up the flare with stacked hands and a desperate left foot. (TR'd, but used same beta as leader)
P7 - run roof move that's slightly exposed. Good for leaders breaking into 5.10.
Descent beta: the trail is very well caired currently. no raps are necessary. will take you back to the base from the far north side of the gully. Sep 12, 2016
Seattle, Washington
The amount of loose rock and lichen is standard if you've climbed anything in the Enchantments. Easy to work around and doesn't detract from the climbing one bit. Sep 26, 2016