Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,332 total · 43/month
Shared By: Abandoned User on Sep 5, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
This route deserves a bit more info.

There are three independent pitches to MJD apart form Orbit.

P1: Climb straight up from the first pitch of Orbit from the nice flat ledge just after the Orbit chimney. Climb up through a small section of annoying vegetation over a pumpy little overlap to an uncomfortable hanging belay on two brand new bolts, added in 2015.

P2: Climb straight up the corner on fun laybacks and loose flakes. Reach a new-ish bolt out left. Clip this then make tenuous, unprotected slab moves left appx. 12 feet or so above the bolt to protection opportunities. Head back right. Climb an easier and fun overlap back to the corner to a one bolt anchor that can be backed up and equalized with a #3 and #1 camalot in a solid crack to the right.

P3: Climb straight left of the belay 15 feet of unprotected slab to a new(ish) bolt. Clip this and climb another 10 horizontal feet to a flake and protection opportunities. Climb to near the top of the flake. Climb back right to a large semi-detached flake. Mantel this and climb up to the top of the MJD corner and a small roof. Make excellent, well-protected moves over this roof to fun chickenhead climbing. Run the rope straight up through two more fun but dirty small roofs, about 55 meters to the comfy alcove belay shared with Orbit route.

A true adventure route for the 5.9 leader! The slab traverses will feel more like 5.10a. If you are frustrated waiting in line on Orbit, do not hesitate to jump on MJD as an excellent alternative. Just be sure you're comfortable with a wee bit of slab runout.

Apr 5, 2014
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
Underrated as good as Orbit imo Feb 25, 2015
add some more info to Jplotz:
P1 - fun pitch, not too hard. the final little overlap is the 5.8-5.9 crux of the pitch, the rest is 5.7 or less
P2 - i climbed this early season (late April), and it was very mungy/mossy. the new-ish bolt was surrounded by moss. the move left did not feel too unprotected with the bolt right there, and was clean enough even with all the moss. however, the overlap back in the corner was a bit wet/mossy.
P3 - route finding was a bit tricky on this pitch to know just where to go to prevent from getting run-out or on harder terrain. after traversing left, keep looking right to the easiest way back right to the semi-detached mantle flake and then into the corner before the roof. tackle the roof head-on. then fun climbing up to the alcove belay.

If P2 is cleaner in the summer when it is dryer, this is definitely as good as Orbit. otherwise, the munginess really detracts from the overall climb. May 1, 2018