Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Snow Creek Wall at approximately 800 feet in height is the premier crag in the Leavenworth area. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.12a and up to 8 pitches long. The rock is a high friction granite with good cracks and a large number of chickenheads on it. The classic rock climb Outer Space is located here, and is regarded as one of the best routes in the state.

Snow Creek Wall is a good place to climb in the spring and fall. It is a good idea to avoid this area in the heart of the summer due to its low elevation and eastern exposure. Expect crowds on the popular routes almost every weekend.

Getting There

Park at the Snow Creek Wall parking lot in Icicle Creek Canyon. This is also known for the hike up to Snow Lake. Hike up the Snow Lake Trailhead for approximately 45 minutes until directly across from the wall. Leave the trail and find a log to cross the creek on, then proceed uphill to the base of the wall.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Snow Creek Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 112
Orbit
Trad 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 447
Outer Space
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Mary Jane Dihedral
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
RPM
Trad 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 39
Iconoclast
Trad 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Hyperspace
Trad 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Edge of Space
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Orbit
 112
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 7 pitches
Outer Space
 447
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Mary Jane Dihedral
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
RPM
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Iconoclast
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Hyperspace
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 7 pitches
Edge of Space
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Snow Creek Wall »

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ScottH  
The descent off of Snow Creek Wall is probably not that complicated in the day, but if you find yourself doing it for the first time at night, as I did, you will be hating life. Here are some general tips:

1) From the top, do not descend the first gully. Cross the gully and begin descending the rib to its right. There is some downclimbing here, but you will eventually find a trail.

2) You will be heading generally down and right, towards the creek. After crossing a slab, head down.

3) You will now head down and way back left, picking your way across slabs. Downclimb a steep gully with a large tree in it. Pick up the trail leading left around a huge boulder.

4) When you come to another gully, do not go down-- go across and you will find yourself at the base of Orbit.

5) This place is swarming with ticks. Watch out. Feb 1, 2006
"As of April 22, 2009, most of Snow Creek Wall is subject to a formal closure to protect falcons that are nesting on Library Ledge, on Outer Space, the most famous climb in Leavenworth. The closure will remain in place through the nesting season, which is expected to end July 31, 2009."

washingtonclimbers.org/Curr… May 8, 2009
Loucks  
Snow Creek Wall Closure

The temporary closure in effect for the Snow Creek Wall (about 5 miles up the Icicle Road from Leavenworth) will be lifted on midnight, July 14 this year. The Main Wall and Shield area of the wall was closed to minimize human disturbance to peregrine falcons nesting in this area. Three falcon chicks fledged July 7th. Young will stay in the vicinity of their natal cliff and continue to be dependent on parent birds for food up to six weeks post-fledging. The Forest Service would like to thank the climbing community for supporting the closure and ensuring another successful year. Climbers are welcome back on the Main Wall starting July 15.

fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/cond… Jul 20, 2009
JimL  
Anyone ventured up and around Snow Creek Wall lately? Wondering about snow on the approach. Apr 16, 2012
Speckid  
Just a heads up there is a wasp nest directly above the P1 bolt belay of Remorse and RPM and they do not like you there. I learned the hard way with about 20-30 wasp stings, and now have remorse. Be careful!!! Jul 13, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
The climbers trail leaves the main trail at 47.528 degrees north. Oct 6, 2015
Sara Campbell
Berkeley, CA
Sara Campbell   Berkeley, CA
FYI I think this is also called the "Snow Lake Trail" and "Snow Lake Trailhead," if you're looking at the sign that says that (instead of "Snow Creek"), and wondering if you're at the right place...


[Admin note: Thanks Sara, I fixed the description. --Jon] Aug 29, 2016
Varun Ramesh
bellingham, WA
Varun Ramesh   bellingham, WA
It is generally agreed that rapping off snow creek wall (back to base) is not as simple and easy as it sounds. As heinous as it sounds, it is safer and easier to walk off. Refer to this discussion here: mountainproject.com/forum/t… Jul 5, 2018