Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 662 total · 30/month
Shared By: Tavish Hansen on Feb 18, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

For those wanting to add yet another classic pitch of 5.8 to 5.9 climbing to Outer Space, this is a must do. The splitter dihedral that makes up the first part of RPM's 2nd pitch can be climbed without having to commit to pulling the .10b roof.

Pitch 1: Climb any of the several options to get to the anchors at the base of RPM's 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: Climb left from the anchor into the small right facing dihedral system and start laybacking your way up the beautiful corner for almost 35 meters. Once you reach the roof, pull left around the edge of the corner to a line of holds that traverses 15 feet left, then follow an easy 5th class ramp to a huge ledge with some trees. Because of rope drag from the traverse, it is advisable to belay your second up from a large slung block as soon as you reach the low 5th class ramp and do the short section to the ledge separately.
Pitch 3+: From here you can continue to the top on Outer Space.

See info for RPM and Outer Space.

Protection

Same rack as for Outer Space. Single or double length sling extensions are necessary for pieces you place before, during, and after the traverse to keep rope drag down.

Photos

Tavish Hansen
Seattle, WA
5.9
Tavish Hansen   Seattle, WA
5.9
Its possible to end up above or below the ideal spot, but there is a protectable, albeit somewhat dirty crack leading straight left from the roof that provides some good handhoolds, with chickenheads below for feet, which was no harder than 5.7 Jun 11, 2017
Ryan Locati
Bozeman
  5.9
Ryan Locati   Bozeman
  5.9
This is a quality start option to outer space and features good albeit dirty climbing in good cracks with good pro. I remember the first pitch featured some interesting face climbing that protected with small cams in interesting small pockets. I might intertain the idea of combining the two pitches as the bolt belay (rap station) was awkward to reach and makes you leave a splitter crack and traverse dead right for ~15 ft. It would be close with a 70m and might require some simul climbing but the first part of the first pitch is mostly 4th scrambling.
In regard to the runout 5.9 slab mentioned I’m pretty sure they were off route as this is mostly a continuous crack Nov 25, 2018