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Routes in Buzzbomb Area

Buzzbomb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cockfight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swingline T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brad Metz and Ron Cotman
Page Views: 158 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jplotz on Nov 28, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Swingline is a fantastic two pitch route that shoots up the middle of Upper Eight Mile Buttress. The first pitch is 35 meters of some of the best slab climbing I've ever done in the Icicle. The position is astounding with the immense North Wall of Mt. Stuart as your backdrop and Icicle road 2,000' below you.
It shows that Great care went into creating this pitch. Small to medium gear supplements the bolts. The moves are always a puzzle to unlock, and cruxes come at you in multiple waves, right up to the last few moves to the anchor.

Pitch two features mostly gear, with cruxy moves over two overlaps, with the second leading you to an exposed headwall crack to the top of the Buttress. The second pitch is a bit gritty.

I must say Swingline is one of my favorite routes up there. Thanks to Brad Metz for establishing this one!

A single 70m rope will get you back down easily. A 60m will leave you with some downclimbing on the second rap.

Location

Upper Eight Mile Buttress.

Protection

Bolts and gear to 3".

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