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Swingline
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Buzzbomb Area
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Crystal Cave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky Charms S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Swingline T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 47.5427, -120.7106 |
| FA: | Brad Metz and Ron Cotman |
| Page Views: | 1,270 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jplotz on Nov 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Swingline is a fantastic two pitch route that shoots up the middle of Upper Eight Mile Buttress. The first pitch is 35 meters of some of the best slab climbing I've ever done in the Icicle. The position is astounding with the immense North Wall of Mt. Stuart as your backdrop and Icicle road 2,000' below you.
It shows that Great care went into creating this pitch. Small to medium gear supplements the bolts. The moves are always a puzzle to unlock, and cruxes come at you in multiple waves, right up to the last few moves to the anchor.
Pitch two features mostly gear, with cruxy moves over two overlaps, with the second leading you to an exposed headwall crack to the top of the Buttress. The second pitch is a bit gritty.
I must say Swingline is one of my favorite routes up there. Thanks to Brad Metz for establishing this one!
A single 70m rope will get you back down easily. A 60m will leave you with some downclimbing on the second rap.
3 Comments