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Routes in Buzzbomb Area

Buzzbomb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cockfight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swingline T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ron Cotman, Tony Bentley 2002
Page Views: 109 total · 3/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jun 5, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The first 2 pitches are quite good, I did them as one 160' pitch. The walk off leaves something to be desired like a trail.

Location

When you come up to the top of the broad gully you might find the Memorial sign which is falling apart, the Crystal cave will be directly above you and the gully will narrow down to a slippery slab turning into a small waterfall on the right. there are several routes here, the twin cracks are the start, belay about 20' below because there is nowhere to stand near the cracks.

Protection

standard rack to 3", when there is a fixed pin listed you know there is funky slab moves, pin is good, crux move. The first belay is listed as single bolt at ledge, I kept going.
3rd pitch: continue up wide crack till at blocky ledge, we went right traversing chicken heads till belaying at pine tree near descent gully.

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