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Routes in Buzzbomb Area
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Buzzbomb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cockfight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lucky Charms S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Swingline T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ron Cotman & Gordon Briody; 2004 |
| Page Views: | 460 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Gosh Glance on Jun 15, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Ascends quartz filled rock to chains just left of the Crystal Cave. Entirely quartz sections are really interesting and unique, but the rock is very delicate and sketchy. I thought this route, like many Ron Cotman routes, was quite bagged- more like Leavenworth 5.9, and harder elsewhere in WA.
The route has consistent 15-20' runouts, and the consequences of a fall on any of them would be severe. There are at least 2 sections where you might as well be free soloing. I don't give 'R' ratings lightly.
5th bolt is kinda hidden, it's there, up and left. When you get to the white roof with black lip (see pic), STAY LOW below it. The (6th) bolt is at the far left end of the roof and is hard to see. This is one of the very dangerous runouts with both pendulum (on sharp rock) and ledge fall potential. The other is the 2nd bolt on frictionless quartz with a certain groundfall if you fell.
The route has consistent 15-20' runouts, and the consequences of a fall on any of them would be severe. There are at least 2 sections where you might as well be free soloing. I don't give 'R' ratings lightly.
5th bolt is kinda hidden, it's there, up and left. When you get to the white roof with black lip (see pic), STAY LOW below it. The (6th) bolt is at the far left end of the roof and is hard to see. This is one of the very dangerous runouts with both pendulum (on sharp rock) and ledge fall potential. The other is the 2nd bolt on frictionless quartz with a certain groundfall if you fell.
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