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Routes in Lower Castle

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This is the lower area below "Logger's Ledge". It is Identified by many roofs.

Getting There

A short trail from the right of the parking area leads to "The Fault".

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 113
Catapult
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
The Bone
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Idiot's Delight
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Smut
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Brass Balls
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Clean Love
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
The Vertebrae.
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Mr. Clean
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Catapult
 113
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Bone
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Idiot's Delight
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Smut
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Brass Balls
 28
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Clean Love
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Vertebrae.
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mr. Clean
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Castle »

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Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Someone (ahem!) Keeps scraping off the moss on lower Castle! Truly, the moss really does dry up and blow away if left alone. When it's scraped off, it remains in a dirty pile at the base of the rock for nearly the rest of the year.

I appreciate the intent of the cleaner though. But it does not improve the quality of the pitches down there. Foot and handholds are and have always been clean where they're needed even if no one does any moss removal, and you're not tromping around in a green carpet for weeks afterwards. Jun 19, 2018
Isaac
Portland
Isaac   Portland
Perhaps it would make more sense to put this underneath Castle Rock and make 2 sections? Seems strange to me to have it separated out this way... Aug 5, 2018
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Good idea, Isaac. Done. Aug 6, 2018 · Temporary Report
We picked up some stuff that was left below Smut/Mr Clean about a week ago including a black nut tool and a very worn red ATC. It was there for a few consecutive days so I grabbed it. If you describe what also was left (all carabined together) I can try to mail it back to you. Sep 22, 2018 · Lost & Found

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