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Routes in Lower Castle Rock

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,987 total, 28/month
Shared By: Eric8 on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

My favorite route at Castle Rock feels a little like the gunks transplanted here in Washington. You have to do an approach pitch to smoke out ledge. From the right side of the ledge climb up a crack, then traverse left out onto the bone, a massive roof jutting out from the wall, heel hook? campus? there are a number of options. Continue to the base off upper Castle or belay along the way.

Location

Off the right side of smoke out ledge. The best cleanest approach is to climb The Fault and continue up to smoke out ledge via Canapult(the dihedral) until you reach the obvious ledge.

Protection

Gear to 3.5

Photos

Michael T.
Mill Creek, WA
 
Michael T.   Mill Creek, WA
 
What a spectacular pitch! Not sure why people are saying the gear isn't there, I was able to plug a #2 in the horizontal under the roof before I cut my feet, and then extend it from the safety of the ledge. Definitely worth yet another trip up Catapult! In Terms of gear, you can leave the #5 at home and a #4 is optional. Don't let it intimidate you, It looks way harder from the ground! May 1, 2017
DobbsyDobbs  
 
The roof scared the crap out of me, but what a fun move! I'll have to try cutting my feet next time and watch them dangle in the air! Sep 26, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
In the 1965 guide this route appears to be known as Penstemon route. Beckey describes it as the next overhang right of Catapult with a triangular roof. 1st ascent by Eric Bjornstad, Dave Hiser. in 1964 5.7, A3. Kramar credits Jim Yoder , Paul Christiansen, 1979 with 1st ascent of the Bone. Nov 20, 2013
CaseyC Choiniere
seattle,wa
 
CaseyC Choiniere   seattle,wa
 
There is bomber pro right under the roof. Number 4 or 5 camalot should keep you safe and sound while you flail! Jul 31, 2012
RandyR
  5.9
RandyR  
  5.9
What an exciting pitch!!! You MUST look down after your feet cut and see all that air under you. I must disagree with Keenan...I thought the protection for the roof is great. A #5 Camalot gets you a cam above your waist for the roof pull, or a #3 gets you one at your feet. Jul 6, 2010
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
I backed off this, there's not much pro for the roof pull, gonna nut up and do it next time! Apr 20, 2010