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Routes in Lower Castle Rock

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd
Page Views: 285 total, 6/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 22, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This is one of many variations leading up the lower Castle Rock wall connecting Amy Carter to Idiots Delight. There are many long lost climbs on Castle, where one runs into ancient pitons. I think this is unclimbed, loose, dirty and lots of plant life, Cleaner now, and pretty fun moves, RFC, hand jams, stemming, pull through steep corner up to ledge with 2) 1/4" bolts and leeper hangers

Location

This route could be a 2nd pitch of Amy Carter or Flying Frog on the far right end of Lower Castle Rock. If you continue past Amy Carter, pass a maple tree, bolt anchor and blocky ledge( this is where you would go up onto the slab for Idiots Delight, hard to protect), drop down right into RFC, go up steep corner. The Fault goes further right up lower angle slab and arching undercling crack.

Protection

Standard rack, save #2 and 3 for the top out.
Good cracks for gear near the old bolts. But watch out for the block directly right of the bolts, it is loose, cracks above it are good.

Photos

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BenJamN
Washington State
BenJamN   Washington State
This route as described has been climbed previously and a couple variations. as earliest as the late 80s but definitely over 10 years ago; alternate endings too. all previously unreported. 1st done date is about as known as some of the boulderings around Leavenworth.
Despite the uncertainty of the FA day, it is a fun jaunt and takes one to below the giant large roof on the right of Lower castle. from this point, many options including Idiots delight, bird-nest overhang, the finishing pitch to the fault, gorilla desperado, and Squeak of humiliated are all somewhat less traveled alternatives to the constant queue of catipult. as with all routes on castle; expect a little funk maybe some dirt and definitely some adventure.
Good name! May 8, 2015