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Routes in Lower Castle Rock

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: John Rupley, Joe Heib, 1957. FFA: Eric Bjornstad,Ed Cooper, 1960
Page Views: 594 total · 11/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 23, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details


Starts on slab above the right end of Lower Castle at the top of whatever 2nd pitch you do to get there.
Well worth seeking out for the climbing up to Loggers ledge.
The crux is the perplexing move around the big roof.
One of the great things about this route is that the climbing above the crux roof is really good. All the other lower wall climbs have 1 good pitch and then low 5th class loose dirty climbing.


Approach is best by Amy Carter. Above that bolted anchor there is another bolted anchor, a maple and a blocky ledge, on the right edge you can go up the arrete and then cross a slab ending on a ledge with 2) rusty 1/4" bolts. A little run-out with some small hard to find cam spots. Or at the point where you go up the arrete, drop down and find a RFC that goes to the same ledge ( Idiots Journey)
From the ledge, climb slab above with cracks to the roof crack. Following the corner above you will come to a ring piton, go left to gain more cracks around a prow near the top out.


Standard rack, maybe double up on .5- #3. There is a ring piton on the upper half. Long slings for wandering nature and rope drag. Good cracks at top for anchor, or maple tree.


Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
This is a very underrated pitch of climbing! I love how the roof move on Idiot's is not very intuitive, and stiff for 5.9. Bad fall if your feet pop moving around the first roof, as there aren't a lot of gear options until well past the crux. Oct 28, 2013

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