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Routes in Lower Castle Rock

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Yoder, Paul Christiansen, 1980
Page Views: 2,730 total, 30/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

Fun climbing over two juggy roofs. The crux is purported to be the finger crack above the second roof. It pays to have a pair of big brass ones because the moves look harder than they really are...

Set up a belay at some point above the second roof and make a second pitch of low-fifth class to Logger's Ledge, or you could conceivably run the first one all the way up.

Location

Climb The Fault and then hang a left to a belay stance below the first roof.

Protection

Various pro to 3"
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
 
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
 
excellent. aaaaaaalmost took a huge whip Sep 6, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
1st ascent: Jim Yoder, Paul Christiansen, 1980.
This is a good lead if you are attempting the 10b grade, protects well, and good rests between crux moves. Dec 9, 2014
There are now anchors with rap rings after the final finger crack above the second roof. A 60 meter rope will make it all the way back to the ground. Aug 19, 2013