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Routes in Lower Castle

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Yoder, Paul Christiansen, 1980
Page Views: 3,112 total · 30/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details


Fun climbing over two juggy roofs. The crux is purported to be the finger crack above the second roof. It pays to have a pair of big brass ones because the moves look harder than they really are...

Set up a belay at some point above the second roof and make a second pitch of low-fifth class to Logger's Ledge, or you could conceivably run the first one all the way up.


Climb The Fault and then hang a left to a belay stance below the first roof.


Various pro to 3"


There are now anchors with rap rings after the final finger crack above the second roof. A 60 meter rope will make it all the way back to the ground. Aug 19, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
1st ascent: Jim Yoder, Paul Christiansen, 1980.
This is a good lead if you are attempting the 10b grade, protects well, and good rests between crux moves. Dec 9, 2014
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
excellent. aaaaaaalmost took a huge whip Sep 6, 2015
Gabe O'Leary
Seattle, WA
Gabe O'Leary   Seattle, WA
Awesome route! As geoff mentions a great 10b for someone trying to push their grade. I wouldn't recommend climbing it unless you have someone following or want to climb the route twice. Trying to clean gear on rappel is quite a pain (ended up re-climbing lower section on TR and taking a huge swing when I pulled my last piece). Jun 11, 2018
The movement was awesome on this route; brass balls felt optional. However. Don't be a dumbass like me and think, "hmm, I wonder if my rope will get stuck in this second roof. Nah, it'll be fine, don't blow the onsight." It will not be fine. Definitely back clean, extend generously, or stick a nut in the lip, or you might end up like me, ten feet from the anchor and unable to move up with your rope completely and utterly welded in the second roof's crack. Sep 16, 2018

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