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Routes in Lower Castle

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Jim Yoder, Phil Rainwater, 1980.
Page Views: 989 total · 7/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

Face cracks and ledges left of "The Fault" chimney.

Protection

Pro to 1".

Photos

- No Photos -
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
I love how this short pitch sandbags the unsuspecting climber. Standing at the base looking up at it, one notices decent cracks for jamming and pro. However, once you launch into it, the route feels immediately steeper and more serious. The feet, it turns out, aren't as generous as you thought. And it's hard to hang around to place pro. If you have a long reach, then overall the crux may feel a tad easier. But Mr. Clean is every bit the 5.10c it is rated! Jun 12, 2013
drsoc
  5.10c
drsoc  
  5.10c
Completely agree with Jplotz's comment! My short person beta is: Climb it with your left hip turned in! Aug 31, 2013
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
#1 camalot saves the day at the ledge Sep 7, 2015

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