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Routes in Lower Castle Rock

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,911 total, 42/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

You get a lot of bang for your buck on this fun climb. It's a dramatic-looking corner with a big roof right above the belay. Don't worry, it's all there.

You should probably build a gear anchor at the obvious ledge. Second pitch is low-fifth up to Logger's Ledge.

Location

Directly above The Fault.

Protection

Various pro to 3"

Photos

Really fun. Not sandbagged at all. Perfect moves on the crux bulge. We started at the chimney which was not bad. Wish we could have linked this with Canary but it was too hot to keep going. Aug 7, 2017
Climbed this route yesterday, it is still wet in the crack holds and there is moss patches throughout. (April1,2017) We got a BD 3 Cam stuck on the second pitch just above the overhang, in bad placement. If you see it and snake it out, please let me know! otherwise, enjoy this classic! thanks Apr 2, 2017
Quy
 
Quy  
 
One of the best 5.8's I've ever lead. The first pitch's crux is a great move, but it'll feel harder due to the exposure. Some will get tunnel vision and focus only on the overhang but if you look down to your left, you see some great feet that might help you out.

We linked this route with fault which was OK. Decent chimney. I lead fault but missed the bolted anchors. I think I was working my way up the crack and had tunnel vision. If you're getting close to the overhang section, make sure to look to your left for the anchors. I ended up setting up natural anchors. Jun 16, 2014
drsoc
  5.8
drsoc  
  5.8
I just climbed this route for the second time and agree, this is a really fun route! May 12, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
One of the best 5.8 routes anywhere.
1st ascent : James Stuart, B.D Nelson, 1963, done free at 5.8 while pounding pitons.
BEWARE of many loose rocks on the last pitch to Loggers ledge.
The bolted belay above the fault chimney was set up for Mr. Clean, it could be used, but I think it better to go higher and belay on nice platform at base of Catapult. May 8, 2014