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Routes in Lower Castle
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[Redacted] T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Apesville T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkey Lip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Jim Yoder & Peter Croft 1981 |
| Page Views: | 383 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Darryl Cramer on Apr 19, 2019 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
This route starts near Brass Balls and then moves left through an overhanging section. (5.11) Thirty years ago this section was protected by several fixed pins. The low angle slab above the initial overhang is climbed to an obvious roof crack. (5.11-) The roof is more difficult that it first appears. Above the roof wander up scruffy rock to a belay ledge. Since the meat of the route is the initial overhang most escape off to the left via Clem’s Layback. The long section of mediocre climbing above the crux sections of this route and Apesville have probably limited their popularity despite the comparatively great climbing through the initial overhang.
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