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Routes in Lower Castle Rock

Aids Victim T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amy Carter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird's Nest Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Transfusion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bone, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brass Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Catapult T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fault, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flying Frog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiots journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG Advised T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shriek of the Mutilated T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertebrae., The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Peter Croft, Jim Yoder 1981
Page Views: 914 total · 18/month
Shared By: Sol Wertkin on Oct 19, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This awesome roof problem on Lower Castle Rock provides exciting moves and great exposure. Solid gear and a tricky lip sequence highlight this neglected classic.

5.10ish climbing leads up the slabs directly below the roof with spaced but good gear. Clip the manky pin and move into a awkward stance below the first roof. Fire in some gear and giv'er. The second roof is more easily climbed to a good ledge and a traditional anchor.

SUPER dirty climbing continues up to Loggers Ledge/Upper Castle.

Location

Starts to the right of Brass Balls on Lower Castle Rock. From near the base of Brass Balls scramble rightward to a good gear belay on the slab, directly in line with the roof cracks above.

Protection

1-2 sets of cams from green alien to #2. Save a #1 and #2 for above the crux. The manky fixed pin can be backed up by a yellow alien.

Photos

This is a really good route! Mar 31, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Nice send Sol! Oct 28, 2013
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
 
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
 
Scrubbed up nicely by Shaun Johnson in the Fall of 2013. Thanks Shaun! Oct 19, 2013