Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Peter Croft, Jim Yoder 1981
Page Views: 1,029 total · 16/month
Shared By: Sol Wertkin on Oct 19, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This awesome roof problem on Lower Castle Rock provides exciting moves and great exposure. Solid gear and a tricky lip sequence highlight this neglected classic.

5.10ish climbing leads up the slabs directly below the roof with spaced but good gear. Clip the manky pin and move into a awkward stance below the first roof. Fire in some gear and giv'er. The second roof is more easily climbed to a good ledge and a traditional anchor.

SUPER dirty climbing continues up to Loggers Ledge/Upper Castle.

Location

Starts to the right of Brass Balls on Lower Castle Rock. From near the base of Brass Balls scramble rightward to a good gear belay on the slab, directly in line with the roof cracks above.

Protection

1-2 sets of cams from green alien to #2. Save a #1 and #2 for above the crux. The manky fixed pin can be backed up by a yellow alien.

Photos

Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
  5.12a
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
  5.12a
Scrubbed up nicely by Shaun Johnson in the Fall of 2013. Thanks Shaun! Oct 19, 2013
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Nice send Sol! Oct 28, 2013
This is a really good route! Mar 31, 2015