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Elevation: 2,063 ft 629 m
GPS: 47.5492, -120.70524
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jon Nelson on Aug 22, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Trail on private property, so tread lightly and be respectful. Also, no climbing at Rainbow Falls because it is on private property. Thanks. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area includes a cluster of small cliffs known as Purina and Black Power, and further up the hill is Careno Crag.

As stated in the Access Notes above: Trail on private property, so tread lightly and be respectful. Also, no climbing at Rainbow Falls because it is on private property. Thanks. 

Most routes face south and east. They are mostly moderate single pitch trad routes, with some bolted routes.

They are great in the early or late season because this area stays dryer and the snow melts sooner than further up canyon. But quite hot in the summer because they mostly face south.

Has afternoon shade where facing east.

Getting There Suggest change

Across the road (north side) from the Snow Creek trailhead parking lot (where you'll need a NFS pass), walk 500 feet Northeast until you reach a wide open lot with a few buildings and a white sign on a boulder indicating "Careno Crag". You can park along the road for free. The trail on the far side of the open lot is about 200 feet east of the Leavenworth Water building on east end of parking lot. The trail is loose sandy material with rock bits so be careful of your footing on the way up.

There is a seep that is wet usually all year. Once up the hill a bit, the trail left goes up to Poison Ivy crack and Planet of the Eights. The right branch of the trail heads up to Purina and Careno. Purina can be easily marked by the very large roof marking "Ride of the Valkyries". You must continue walking up the hill and right to get to Careno Crag.

67 Total Climbs

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Location: Purina and Careno Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Purina and Careno Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
El Caliente
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Careno Corners
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 53
Poison Ivy Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Glass Eye
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Exotic Dancer
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Cool Struttin'
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Heave Ho
Trad, Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 33
Pocketmeister
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 92
Regular Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
A Swingin' Affair
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Bale/Kramar route
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 12
MJB Arete
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Pumpline
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Corina Corner
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 7
Black Power
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
El Caliente Purina Crags
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Careno Corners Careno Crag
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Poison Ivy Crack Purina Crags
 53
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Glass Eye Purina Crags
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Exotic Dancer Careno Crag
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cool Struttin' Careno Crag
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Heave Ho Careno Crag
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Pocketmeister Careno Crag
 33
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Regular Route Careno Crag
 92
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
A Swingin' Affair Careno Crag
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bale/Kramar route Careno Crag
 57
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
MJB Arete Careno Crag
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Pumpline Careno Crag
 48
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Corina Corner Careno Crag
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Black Power Black Power
 7
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Purina and Careno Area »

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