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Red M&Ms
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 131
votes
Routes in (c) King Pins
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Big Brown Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Elvis's Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hole in my Soul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mix it Up T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Munging for Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Never Forget Your Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Only the Lonely T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Premature Ejaculation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red M&Ms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rimming the Berries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rimming the Roids T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sex With Vegetables T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stroken' the Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunshine Buttress S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's My Fucking Crack Pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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You're in a jam, I’m in a Pickle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | FA Max Dufford (TR, 1985) | FL Jim Yoder (1994) |
| Page Views: | 14,301 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | Lizzy Trower on Feb 2, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Red M&Ms is a great stemming route that heads up the corner just right of George and Martha. Any actual holds on the route are small and some stemming skill is a bit of a necessity.
The route starts with easier moves, and then gradually increasing in difficulty, with possibly the hardest move just below the anchor. Avoid using the wide crack on George and Martha.
This route started its life as a toprope, rated 5.11c. The first lead on gear going to Jim Yoder in 1994, who reportedly gave it 12a as a trad lead. It was bolted in 1997 by Dave Fulton, with permission from the FA, and was chopped a few years later by Tom Michael (first-hand stories in the comments). You may speculate as to why the grade on MP tends to fluctuate between 11d and 12a... increase in pro technologies, toprope downgrades, and the flipflop between this and Lingerie at Middle East (originally given 12a as well, but called easy as 11c now, and if it is 11c maybe Red M&Ms is only a letter grade harder ..) ... continue ad nauseam.
You can access the anchors from the routes on either side to set up a TR if you aren't comfortable on thin and difficult gear.
Protection
Doubles or triples in micro nuts, all the way down to the smallest brassies. A hand full of small cams from white 00 Metolius (~.1 BD) up to .75 BD, but most of the crack takes nuts better than cams. Independent two bolt anchor with clip-n-lowers, no longer shares and anchor with George and Martha (though you can easily access either one from the same stance).
Photos
26 Comments