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Red M&Ms [Suggest Change]
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 61
votes
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Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sex With Vegetables T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,764 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | Lizzy Trower on Feb 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick |
Your Star Rating:
Description [Suggest Change]
Red M&Ms is a great stemming route that heads up the corner just right of George and Martha. Any actual holds on the route are small and some stemming skill is a bit of a necessity.
The route starts with easier moves, and then gradually increasing in difficulty, with possibly the hardest move just below the anchor. Avoid using the wide crack on George and Martha.
This route started its life as a trad route, was bolted, and now chopped to make for an exercise in using thin pro. You can access the anchors from the routes on either side to set up a TR if you aren't comfortable on thin pro.
The route starts with easier moves, and then gradually increasing in difficulty, with possibly the hardest move just below the anchor. Avoid using the wide crack on George and Martha.
This route started its life as a trad route, was bolted, and now chopped to make for an exercise in using thin pro. You can access the anchors from the routes on either side to set up a TR if you aren't comfortable on thin pro.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Many small nuts. Bolted anchor at the top that is shared with George and Martha.
Stone Ridge, NY
Wenatchee, WA
Climbs are graded based on an onsight lead, meaning you can't top rope a pitch, lower off and declare it trivial. If you lead climb, you can agree there's a damn sight difference between the safety of a top rope vs. placing your gear, especially on desperately thin leads.
I bet had you decided to lead Red M n M's onsight, you would agree with it's current grade. Oct 1, 2012
tufaclimbing.com
Had one of those freak sunny hail storms start up before the first crux, wetting my holds, and giving me the opportunity to test out what proved to be adequate gear.
Oh, and don't forget to hop onto Crossing the Delaware with your Pants Down afterward. Bring a .3/.4 C4 for this ultra fine climb. Apr 19, 2013
Seattle, WA
Seattle, Wa.
Marblemount, WA
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
I'm not going to give too much beta, as to not take away from another's experience; but what I will say is that it's secure, safe, steep, and amazing. The biggest piece I placed was a yellow Metolius (.3 BD c3), but regretted not having a #1 BD down low. These cracks lust for small nuts, and if placing in both cracks, make sure to extend appropriately. Most of them would not be able to take an outward pull, but the steepness of the climb and clean nature of the falls gave me confidence in how they were oriented. Top crux must be pulled a few moves above a small nut, which could result in some great (and I mean great, I found out the hard way) air time on what is probably the smallest piece you've fallen on yet. So you've got to be okay with that.
I will say, though, that it is a pretty serious lead. The gear isn't TOO obvious, but it IS there. Must be comfortable on small gear (obviously), and must be able to maintain your composure or the disco leg will vibrate you right out of the stem box. You know pretty early on what you're going to have to deal with, and down climbing from low on the pitch is a real option.
Now get out, get psyched, and get on it. Mar 5, 2017
Wenatchee, WA
The grade is given based on ground up, onsight. period. Once done in this fashion, go ahead, downgrade it.declaring a downgrade after wiring the moves and/or protection (or especially a TR lap) is absurd.
If you find yourself at any point, using the right hand aerete. you are off route. climb the twin seams... Mar 25, 2018