Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: FA Max Dufford (TR, 1985) | FL Jim Yoder (1994)
Page Views: 14,083 total · 63/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Feb 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route

123 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Red M&Ms is a great stemming route that heads up the corner just right of George and Martha. Any actual holds on the route are small and some stemming skill is a bit of a necessity.

The route starts with easier moves, and then gradually increasing in difficulty, with possibly the hardest move just below the anchor. Avoid using the wide crack on George and Martha.

This route started its life as a toprope, rated 5.11c. The first lead on gear going to Jim Yoder in 1994, who reportedly gave it 12a as a trad lead. It was bolted in 1997 by Dave Fulton, with permission from the FA, and was chopped a few years later by Tom Michael (first-hand stories in the comments). You may speculate as to why the grade on MP tends to fluctuate between 11d and 12a... increase in pro technologies, toprope downgrades, and the flipflop between this and Lingerie at Middle East (originally given 12a as well, but called easy as 11c now, and if it is 11c maybe Red M&Ms is only a letter grade harder ..) ... continue ad nauseam. 

You can access the anchors from the routes on either side to set up a TR if you aren't comfortable on thin and difficult gear.

Protection Suggest change

Many small nuts. Bolted anchor at the top with chains and mussy hooks that is shared with George and Martha.