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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Merriman, Agravis, Darby
Page Views: 1,590 total, 27/month
Shared By: PTSinner on Feb 17, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Great sustained trad route reminiscent of the Smith gorge. Spotting the right feet keeps the pump factor down.

Location

Inside corner between Mr. Clean and Boshido

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
I gave this climb a good cleaning on 11/16/17. The pods were full of loose rock and a surprising amount of rock just fell off the face with just my hands. Nov 19, 2017
Tatsu Ota
Bellingham, WA
  5.9+
Tatsu Ota   Bellingham, WA
  5.9+
Awesome climb! Really soft for its grade. It eats nuts! Small nuts in particular. BD4-8 Dec 23, 2014
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
 
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
 
Stellar climb, and I can echo the sentiments that this pitch deserves more stars. The largest piece I took was a single #2 C4, and I didn't end up placing it.

My rack was the following: single set of C3s from grey to yellow (00 - 2); single 0.2 X4; doubles of C4 from #0.3 - 0.5; and single #0.75, #1 and #2. You will want micronuts for the thin sections of the route.

I didn't find a place at the very top to use a 0.75/1 sized piece. I used a #0.2 X4 at the very top and that proved to be a bomber piece. Lots of loose bits in all the alcoves that you encounter along the way.

There are plenty of rest stances throughout the route, and there's even an alcove you can get a knee-bar and no-hands rest in! :D Nov 2, 2014
Josh Baxley
Seattle, WA
 
Josh Baxley   Seattle, WA
 
This route is awesome. Long, sustained, great gear, and very thoughtful and interesting movement all the way up. The last 20 feet are especially stellar.

Deserves more stars.

Save a .75-1" piece to protect the top. Aug 2, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
there is a chain rap anchor on this. A good climb but a bit dangerous with a few really crappy sections, be sure to protect lower portion well, and watch out for loose parts.Cleaner then it used to be, but still choosy.
I added a bolt and chains to this anchor in 2011.
I suppose everyone has different tastes, I still think this is a solid 10b, and pretty sketchy chossy too. Apr 1, 2014
Aawait  
Sweet climb! Jun 3, 2013