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Premature Ejaculation
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 7
votes
Routes in (c) King Pins
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Acapulco Gold T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbed For Your Pleasure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Big Brown Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Elvis's Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hole in my Soul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mix it Up T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Munging for Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Never Forget Your Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Only the Lonely T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Premature Ejaculation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red M&Ms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rimming the Berries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rimming the Roids T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sex With Vegetables T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Steel Grill T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stroken' the Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunshine Buttress S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's My Fucking Crack Pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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You're in a jam, I’m in a Pickle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Bill Robins & Paul Certa (1997) |
| Page Views: | 1,033 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Feb 4, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
I was working on stuff at the Middle East wall and got too cold so had to find something in the sun. Being Monday I had the place mostly to myself and what better time to do some quarrying.
There's a route under all this choss I am sure of it.
It looked promising but just very loose.
It had a 5.8 rating in the book and gear up to #6, and chimney????
More like 5.9, gear up to #4
I have been up dozens of these Robbins FA's now and likely 2nd ascent. He always climbed these cracks ground up, no precleaning, infact they are never cleaned and the choss is horrifying. Every single face hold comes off in your hands or under your feet. The sides of the crack have a layer of crumb cake that will not take pro. There are basketball sized holds that look solid and slip right off with the smooth basalt cracks. He survived all these crazy cracks to die in a avalanche. I did a major cleaning of this on 11/29/21 , got out dangerous loose blocks and scraped out the crumbling crack. It now has an anchor.
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