Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mitch Merriman, Allan Helton, 4/1998
Page Views: 372 total · 10/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 9, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Not the usual single crack all the way up, some crack switch with broken discontinuous thin cracks.
The crux is in the first 30 feet, where it is thin and hard to protect, seems just as hard as the 11a cracks at Vantage,it was 10c in the book but maybe it is 10d. Pink X4, C3's, blue and green Aliens.

Location

first crack right of the Chossmaster.
Trad. Death route on the right.

Protection

mostly very small cams and nuts up to 3". You will want multiple .3 , .4 and .5 Camalot size. Brass nuts for start, if even that hardly works, maybe Ball-nuts, I did not try those. There are a few short run-outs up high where there are more jug holds, just look for pro, and save some small cams for some good horizontal cracks.
No anchor, can access Chossmaster anchor and or gear anchor. The gear anchor is a pain in the neck- use a cord-o-let.
I refrained from adding an anchor to this one, not really sure anyone will climb it.

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d PG13
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d PG13
BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK.
I climbed this on 3/2/17 and pulled off quite a lot of loose rock, it is cleaner now but still suspect.
If you lead this let me know what gear is good. Mar 3, 2017