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Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Routes in (c) King Pins
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Acapulco Gold T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbed For Your Pleasure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Big Brown Beaver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bits & Bobs T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Elvis's Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hole in my Soul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mix it Up T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Munging for Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Never Forget Your Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Only the Lonely T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Premature Ejaculation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red M&Ms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rimming the Berries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rimming the Roids T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sex With Vegetables T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shady Chimney S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Steel Grill T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stroken' the Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunshine Buttress S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's My Fucking Crack Pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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You're in a jam, I’m in a Pickle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 47.0231, -119.97494 |
| FA: | Mitch Merriman & Allan Helton (1998) |
| Page Views: | 1,490 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Mar 9, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Not the usual single crack all the way up, some crack switch with broken discontinuous thin cracks.
The crux is in the first 30 feet, where it is thin and hard to protect, seems just as hard as the 11a cracks at Vantage,it was 10c in the book but maybe it is 10d. Pink X4, C3's, blue and green Aliens.
Protection
mostly very small cams and nuts up to 3". You will want multiple .3 , .4 and .5 Camalot size. Brass nuts for start, if even that hardly works, maybe Ball-nuts, I did not try those. There are a few short run-outs up high where there are more jug holds, just look for pro, and save some small cams for some good horizontal cracks.
I thought about adding a bolt to protect the start. When cleaning some large chunks came off near the start so now there’s buckets to hang on to reach the first good placement.
I added an anchor to this 11/18/24. Only quick links .it will need some short chain.
5 Comments