Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Robbins, Charlie Edmunds, Sept. 1988
Page Views: 451 total · 24/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Nov 19, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

What a unusual name for Bill. I have been considering this for a while ( no not the SWV )and took the time to battle the wind tunnel chimney and dive bombing pigeons to make a six point trad anchor and squirm through the squeeze chimney to climb this.
The face on either side of this is mostly smooth and clean. The crack is still pretty dirty.
Mostly hand and fists, some fingers and face holds. near the top it goes to OW/ Chimney and you have to move above the last gear while squeezing in and then move out to right face and a finger crack.
This should get more stars when it is cleaned.

Location

Peaceful Warrior on the left, George and Martha on the right.

Protection

Full range of cams to 4". Optional #5. remember some smaller cams for the top out.
There was no anchor. So instead of squeezing through into pigeon poop and trying to find a trad anchor that won't kill you I added a anchor for rapping.

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
come on what are you waiting for, this is awesome ! Dec 26, 2017
Tyler S
Edmonds, WA
  5.9
Tyler S   Edmonds, WA
  5.9
Fun route. Didn't require much offwidth technique. I used cams to 1" and one #3 (crack seemed to take pro best where it constricted).
Felt 5.9ish to me. Apr 18, 2018