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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed for your pleasure. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,963 total · 45/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The fairly obvious chimney to the left of George and Martha and Peaceful Warrior. A crack in the chimney provides good protection and as chimneys go, its actually pretty fun. When its windy, it can be REALLY WINDY inside the chimney as the wind gets funnelled in from one side right into you. So bring a jacket.

Protection

Standard trad rack to 3".

Photos

Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
 
This route is really popular. People line up for it. As well they might. It's fun. Mar 16, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.7
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.7
Someone took a crap at the bottom of this route recently. There was toilet paper around and everything, but the feces were clearly visible. Just because it's a chimney does not make this a toilet!! Apr 9, 2012
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.7
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.7
Lo and behold! We found crap at the base of this route. If you are someone that has taken a shit in this chimney, then there is a special rung of Hell reserved for you. Apr 21, 2014
Gordon Seslar
Wenatchee, WA
 
Gordon Seslar   Wenatchee, WA
 
Smelled of pigeon feces, pigeon defecated on my step son as he was following. Recommend bringing tissues and hand sanitizer. I wouldn't recommend climbing this route if there's human feces in the chimney, instead go clim "Stroken the Chicken" it much better IMHO. Mar 7, 2015
Peter Biddle
  5.7+ PG13
Peter Biddle  
  5.7+ PG13
This route can be topped and hiked out, which I recommend as the "anchor" currently sitting near the top consists of two pieces of cordelette wrapped around the left hand spire. There are no chains. I didn't like the look of that at all - it's nearly impossible to inspect most of it because the spire is so big. Would it support top-roping? Almost certainly. But at some point it might not, and the only real way of knowing that will be when it fails.

There is lots of room for different sized pro all over the place, even for stuff like Big Bros if you have 'em, and if you wanted to build an anchor up there you could be totally bomber without using the sketchy anchor.

Fortunately there was no visible human poo in there when we climbed it. I agree, crapping INSIDE a route is just mind-bogglingly rude. Mar 25, 2015
Tee Kay
Seattle, WA
Tee Kay   Seattle, WA
Just an FYI: Didn't take a stab at it this weekend, but it got gangbanged. One climber added another sling for the anchor, there are now 3 there holding the anchor. Sep 8, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.7
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.7
FA: Robins,Rieke,Hunt, 10/1991. I remember seeing Bill Robbins out at Vantage in 91 and 92, memorable with his patch covered painter pants and desert sun hat, I had no idea he was probably doing one first ascent after another as I tried to climb any easy bolted route there was.
I gave this route a bolted anchor in 2016. Feb 19, 2016
Brock B.
Seattle, WA
  5.7
Brock B.   Seattle, WA
  5.7
Looks like a chain anchor has been added to this route. May 23, 2016
Matthew Inman
Spokane, WA
Matthew Inman   Spokane, WA
First ascent was definitely before 10/91 (see below). I climbed this route for the first time that Fall and many had climbed it before that. John Eminger & John Kittle published what I think was the first guide to the area, "The Washington Desert: A Climber’s Guide," that year and 7 Virgins and a Mule was in it. Feb 2, 2018

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