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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: M. Dufford and D. Leonardi 85'
Page Views: 8,728 total, 61/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

One of the Coulee's best hand cracks.

Jam thin hands to hands to fists with a spot o' offwidth below the anchor.

Bolted anchor

this was the scene of a tragic fatal accident a few years ago

Location

Between Pony Keg and Crossing the Threshold

Protection

tcu's and cams to 4"
oretro
  5.10a
oretro  
  5.10a
I used a #4 and was very thankful to have it!
I didn't take up any smaller cams (<0.5) but wish that I had. Oct 19, 2015
Agree to By Ryan Huetter. I DID bump second #3 higher and I did not use #4. Oct 13, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Fun. It is definitely well protected, though I was happy to have a #4 camalot up top. An old #3.5 camalot actually would have worked better... Apr 30, 2012
Brandontru
Nevada
  5.10-
Brandontru   Nevada
  5.10-
The first time I went to the coulee someone had taken a fall on this climb. Spooky stuff.


None the less it is one of the coolest cracks in area. Mar 4, 2010
mcarizona
Flag
mcarizona   Flag
Kropp was indeed the man for getting it done. I still have the article somewhere and there is a picture of a broken biner. Some shockload or crossload went down that day.
Steve Nov 17, 2009
Scott Coldiron
Spokane, WA
  5.10a
Scott Coldiron   Spokane, WA  
  5.10a
Much respect to Goran, he was an amazing athlete. With that said, don't be freaked out by the past accident. This is a fun, safe lead. Ditto the last post. I don't think the #4 is needed, and didn't need to bump up the second #3. May 22, 2009
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
No need for #4 camalot. With 2 #3 camalots you can leave one low and bump the other up with you for the short wide bit at the top. Really stellar climbing! Mar 23, 2009
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
The victim of the accident was Goran Kropp in 2002. You want to have at least one 3 inch and one 4 inch cam for this route. Mar 16, 2009