Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, March 1999
Page Views: 482 total · 8/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 21, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A seldom done route. Maybe the code of the bolt warrior is to sandbag the trad climber. This route is listed as a 5.9 and is way harder- about the same or harder than Crackmaster Lambada. Most routes at Vantage tend to overrated, with a few exceptions.

Don't attempt to climb this at the same time that someone is climbing Boschido, too much overlap with arete holds.

I gave this a major makeover 1/22/2018. Lots of small rock and dirt scraped out of the crack and a suitcase size rock came out. I added a anchor too. There is just no way this could be 5.9, there are sustained big 10b moves for much of the middle of the route. Most of the gear is in the 1/2" size, widens up some at the top.
When you are perched up on top looking down you can see that it is slightly overhanging.

Location

next crack to the right of the long bolted route Boschido.

Protection

Pro to 2-3".Very long, double rack with hex's useful for undulating constrictions, several pumpy crux moves .
You could easily place 4 each of .4 and .5 Camalots.
I added a anchor just below the top. The trad anchor options are pesky and there used to be bolts that were chopped.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
I climbed this 3/1/17 and still think it is hard, even with using the arete holds it seems more like 10b. Mar 3, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
I climbed this on Easter weekend and would say it is DANGEROUS. Too much loose rock to lead this with belayers and bystanders below. Apr 3, 2018