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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed for your pleasure. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, March 1999
Page Views: 462 total · 8/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 21, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

A seldom done route. Maybe the code of the bolt warrior is to sandbag the trad climber. This route is listed as a 5.9 and is way harder- about the same or harder than Crackmaster Lambada. Most routes at Vantage tend to overrated, with a few exceptions.

Don't attempt to climb this at the same time that someone is climbing Boschido, too much overlap with arete holds.

I gave this a major makeover 1/22/2018. Lots of small rock and dirt scraped out of the crack and a suitcase size rock came out. I added a anchor too. There is just no way this could be 5.9, there are sustained big 10b moves for much of the middle of the route. Most of the gear is in the 1/2" size, widens up some at the top.
When you are perched up on top looking down you can see that it is slightly overhanging.

Location

next crack to the right of the long bolted route Boschido.

Protection

Pro to 2-3".Very long, double rack with hex's useful for undulating constrictions, several pumpy crux moves .
You could easily place 4 each of .4 and .5 Camalots.
I added a anchor just below the top. The trad anchor options are pesky and there used to be bolts that were chopped.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
I climbed this 3/1/17 and still think it is hard, even with using the arete holds it seems more like 10b. Mar 3, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10-
I climbed this on Easter weekend and would say it is DANGEROUS. Too much loose rock to lead this with belayers and bystanders below. Apr 3, 2018

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