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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Karl Birkinkamp (?)
Page Views: 6,074 total, 42/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This route is in the central/left part of the Stems and Seeds area. It is the 2nd crack to the right of the fairly obvious Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7) chimney. An excellent handcrack with some faceholds that provide very nice stances for placing pro. It gets a little wide at the very top. This is the route to climb if you want to toprope Red M&Ms.

Protection

Standard trad rack, mostly in the handcrack size with one bigger piece for the top (3" is good). There is a bolted anchor at the top that is shared with Red M&Ms.

Photos

Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
The wide finish is definitely harder than air guitar. Less face climbing and more good jamming on this also. Do both if you're in the area.

I brought the 4, but I went deep for better jams and it was going to get in the way so I didn't place it. Two #3s were nice, placing one just below the offwidth as Rohan mentioned was definitely bomber. Nov 7, 2016
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
 
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
 
I brought a #4 cam with me, but I couldn't find a good way to protect the offwidth section with it. A #3 cam at the base of the offwidth section produced an absolutely bomber placement that allowed me to make the final moves up to the chains. I had a ton of fun on this route :) I didn't use anything smaller than a 0.5. Apr 14, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
This anchor had 1/4" chain, replaced with 3/8" chain in 2011 for everyones safety.
One of those that goes .5, .75, #1, #2, #3, #4, also can place a small cam near top in horizontal crack. Feb 21, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9
A lot of jugs ease the steep crack climbing on this one. Jan 23, 2012
Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
  5.9
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
  5.9
One of the best .10a's at the Coulee.

Jughaul cruise with a few jams up to the short OW section. Route is very clean.

I personally didnt find the bulk of this route harder than air guitar except for the short OW (4" cam useful) section on George and Martha is Harder than the End of Air Guitar.

Super good! Sep 18, 2011
Rafe
  5.9
Rafe  
  5.9
This and Air Guitar are both great routes, must do's, and very similar. I could see them being .10's if you didn't have such a nice rest right before the wide end cruxes...You can plug a #4 from the rest and pretty much eliminate crux commitment too. May 5, 2009
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
This route is a lot harder than Air Guitar. It's just a lot more pumpy. Mar 16, 2009