Type: Trad
FA: Karl Birkinkamp (?)
Page Views: 7,929 total · 50/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

139 Opinions

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This route is in the central/left part of the Stems and Seeds area. It is the 2nd crack to the right of the fairly obvious Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7) chimney. An excellent handcrack with some faceholds that provide very nice stances for placing pro. It gets a little wide at the very top. This is the route to climb if you want to toprope Red M&Ms.


Standard trad rack, mostly in the handcrack size with one bigger piece for the top (3" is good). There is a bolted anchor at the top that is shared with Red M&Ms.


Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
This route is a lot harder than Air Guitar. It's just a lot more pumpy. Mar 16, 2009
This and Air Guitar are both great routes, must do's, and very similar. I could see them being .10's if you didn't have such a nice rest right before the wide end cruxes...You can plug a #4 from the rest and pretty much eliminate crux commitment too. May 5, 2009
Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
One of the best .10a's at the Coulee.

Jughaul cruise with a few jams up to the short OW section. Route is very clean.

I personally didnt find the bulk of this route harder than air guitar except for the short OW (4" cam useful) section on George and Martha is Harder than the End of Air Guitar.

Super good! Sep 18, 2011
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
A lot of jugs ease the steep crack climbing on this one. Jan 23, 2012
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
This anchor had 1/4" chain, replaced with 3/8" chain in 2011 for everyones safety.
One of those that goes .5, .75, #1, #2, #3, #4, also can place a small cam near top in horizontal crack. Feb 21, 2014
Seattle, WA
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
I brought a #4 cam with me, but I couldn't find a good way to protect the offwidth section with it. A #3 cam at the base of the offwidth section produced an absolutely bomber placement that allowed me to make the final moves up to the chains. I had a ton of fun on this route :) I didn't use anything smaller than a 0.5. Apr 14, 2014
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
The wide finish is definitely harder than air guitar. Less face climbing and more good jamming on this also. Do both if you're in the area.

I brought the 4, but I went deep for better jams and it was going to get in the way so I didn't place it. Two #3s were nice, placing one just below the offwidth as Rohan mentioned was definitely bomber. Nov 7, 2016