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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed for your pleasure. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, April 1990
Page Views: 366 total · 7/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 20, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This route deserves more then the 1 star it gets in the book. The PG rating also does not apply any more than the usual loose rock at Vantage. The PG rating is for the bottom broken ragged crack, the Corner Pocket crack or the bolted Ancients could be climbed to pillar top anchor, then step right.
The description of hand crack at the top does not prepare you for the burly fingers layback without the usual face holds.
Good to save #2 Camalot for top tight hands crack.

Location

This is the inside corner 2nd crack right of Justified Ancients

Protection

gear to 3", the lower half would take hex's well in the funky pods. save some #.4, #.5 #.75, #1 for the upper layback and #2 camalot for tight hands jam at top. A 2 bolt anchor shared with Acapulco Gold. no chain for rapping. With a long cord-o-let you can bring the anchor over the edge for TR.

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
This route definitely deserves more stars! The last 40' of this route is the best bit of 5.10 crack climbing at the KP that is tragically too short. Steph Abegg's photo makes it almost look like a Trout Creek crack.

I love combining this crack finish with the Justifies Ancients bolted route below it. Highly recommended. Jan 18, 2015
Aaron Nash
North Bend, WA
 
Aaron Nash   North Bend, WA
 
Fun crack worth doing! No anchor at the top, but you can use the anchor for AG or Corner Pockets (new chains) to lower off of. Put a long sling on your last piece; pretty draggy otherwise. May 1, 2017
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b
stellar bit of climbing. the first portion protects just fine with solid but jagged rock. top section is 4 stars! Oct 21, 2017

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