Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, April 1990
Page Views: 441 total · 7/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 20, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This route deserves more then the 1 star it gets in the book. The PG rating also does not apply any more than the usual loose rock at Vantage. The PG rating is for the bottom broken ragged crack, the Corner Pocket crack or the bolted Ancients could be climbed to pillar top anchor, then step right.
The description of hand crack at the top does not prepare you for the burly fingers layback without the usual face holds.
Good to save #2 Camalot for top tight hands crack.

Location

This is the inside corner 2nd crack right of Justified Ancients

Protection

gear to 3", the lower half would take hex's well in the funky pods. save some #.4, #.5 #.75, #1 for the upper layback and #2 camalot for tight hands jam at top. A 2 bolt anchor shared with Acapulco Gold. no chain for rapping. With a long cord-o-let you can bring the anchor over the edge for TR.

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
This route definitely deserves more stars! The last 40' of this route is the best bit of 5.10 crack climbing at the KP that is tragically too short. Steph Abegg's photo makes it almost look like a Trout Creek crack.

I love combining this crack finish with the Justifies Ancients bolted route below it. Highly recommended. Jan 18, 2015
Aaron Nash
North Bend, WA
 
Aaron Nash   North Bend, WA
 
Fun crack worth doing! No anchor at the top, but you can use the anchor for AG or Corner Pockets (new chains) to lower off of. Put a long sling on your last piece; pretty draggy otherwise. May 1, 2017
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b
stellar bit of climbing. the first portion protects just fine with solid but jagged rock. top section is 4 stars! Oct 21, 2017
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
the rock inside the crack doesn't sound that great, but the climbing is fun (but short). Oct 31, 2018