Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Robbins, Paul Certa 1989
Page Views: 2,202 total · 31/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on May 4, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

On the recommended routes list in the Yoder/Ford guidebook. Stem your way up between a dihedral and pillar, placing gear into the dihedral crack. This route would be very popular if someone would put some anchors on it, or at least some bolts to belay from at the top. There is a large chockstone at ~70 feet that has slings around it. You could stop here, or continue to the top and build a gear anchor at 100 ft.

Location

Between the two sport 5.9s Whipsaw and Throbbing Gristle. If you continue to the top, walk a few routes to the East (climber's right) to an obvious rap station.

Protection

Standard rack, on the bigger size. The crack is fairly uniform at about #2 & #3 Camalots most of the way.

Photos

Gordon Seslar
Wenatchee, WA
 
Gordon Seslar   Wenatchee, WA
 
This route becomes a chimney climb after the chock stone. It is a very fun route, reminds me of Church Bowl Chimney (Yosemite) near the end. Mar 7, 2015
Stephen Montgomery
Washington DC
  5.7
Stephen Montgomery   Washington DC
  5.7
There are anchors at the top of the climb. Maybe I am horrible at finding placements but I had had two #3 camalots that I leapfrogged up the crack. I only found one #2 placement. Having said that, the climb is awesome. Mar 16, 2016
rangerjoe  
 
Fun route which requires a variety of techniques at an entry level. Yes there are chains at the top now, nice to leave a directional in the left crack past the chockstone for top roping. Oct 10, 2016
kmfoerster
Seattle, Wa
  5.7
kmfoerster   Seattle, Wa
  5.7
Up to the chockstone feels like 5.6 and it gets a bit harder after that to the anchors above. The portion above the chockstone felt like 5.7/5.8 . The gear recommendations say #2 camalots mostly but I found that #3 placements were the most common. A really fun route. Oct 17, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
I gave this an anchor in 2016, also good for Shady Chimney. Jun 27, 2017
BrokenChairs ~
Seattle, WA
  5.7+
BrokenChairs ~   Seattle, WA
  5.7+
I agree with kmfoerster that it is a lot more thought provoking climbing above the chockstone. Several blue camalots will not go unused. I bumped a 4 and a WC 5 about three times each and found a stellar orange metolious on the wall to the right a few moves above the chock. Nov 20, 2017