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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed for your pleasure. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Robbins, Paul Certa 1989
Page Views: 1,901 total · 30/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on May 4, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

On the recommended routes list in the Yoder/Ford guidebook. Stem your way up between a dihedral and pillar, placing gear into the dihedral crack. This route would be very popular if someone would put some anchors on it, or at least some bolts to belay from at the top. There is a large chockstone at ~70 feet that has slings around it. You could stop here, or continue to the top and build a gear anchor at 100 ft.

Location

Between the two sport 5.9s Whipsaw and Throbbing Gristle. If you continue to the top, walk a few routes to the East (climber's right) to an obvious rap station.

Protection

Standard rack, on the bigger size. The crack is fairly uniform at about #2 & #3 Camalots most of the way.

Photos

Gordon Seslar
Wenatchee, WA
 
Gordon Seslar   Wenatchee, WA
 
This route becomes a chimney climb after the chock stone. It is a very fun route, reminds me of Church Bowl Chimney (Yosemite) near the end. Mar 7, 2015
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
  5.7
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
  5.7
There are anchors at the top of the climb. Maybe I am horrible at finding placements but I had had two #3 camalots that I leapfrogged up the crack. I only found one #2 placement. Having said that, the climb is awesome. Mar 16, 2016
rangerjoe  
 
Fun route which requires a variety of techniques at an entry level. Yes there are chains at the top now, nice to leave a directional in the left crack past the chockstone for top roping. Oct 10, 2016
kmfoerster
Seattle, Wa
  5.7
kmfoerster   Seattle, Wa
  5.7
Up to the chockstone feels like 5.6 and it gets a bit harder after that to the anchors above. The portion above the chockstone felt like 5.7/5.8 . The gear recommendations say #2 camalots mostly but I found that #3 placements were the most common. A really fun route. Oct 17, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
I gave this an anchor in 2016, also good for Shady Chimney. Jun 27, 2017
BrokenChairs BrettC
Sultan, WA
  5.7+
BrokenChairs BrettC   Sultan, WA
  5.7+
I agree with kmfoerster that it is a lot more thought provoking climbing above the chockstone. Several blue camalots will not go unused. I bumped a 4 and a WC 5 about three times each and found a stellar orange metolious on the wall to the right a few moves above the chock. Nov 20, 2017

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