Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Peter Hunt, Bill Robins, and Pete Rieke 88'
Page Views: 2,509 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

A good finger crack and stemming dihedral.

Climb a short section of choss to the top of a short broken pillar to the right of the belay.

Climb the corner dihedral in front of you. There is a bolted line on the face to the right of the corner. Finger locks and stems stay consistently interesting to the top. Belay from bolts on top (no rappel or lowering hangers).

Location

Just right of Boshido (bolted 10.b) there is a alcove with 5 crack routes. Mr. Clean is the right-most corner above the broken pillar. Just left of the next bolted route (Friends 10.d).

Protection

Mostly small with a couple hand-sized. Slings to avoid drag on first couple pieces.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
This is a good lead if you are new to 11a cracks, protects well with small cams and nuts, some hard moves to good rests makes this a pretty easy 11a.
My rule is if I can on-sight it, it must not be 11a, might even be 10c, but it is pretty pumpy.There are a few hard to protect chossy bits to bypass, but they are short bits.Also I am using any holds I can reach, so being over six feet may make this grade height dependent.

There is now ( 2/2016 ) a 2 bolt sport permadraw type anchor at the top of this. Maybe not to worry but I noticed that the left bolt is either near or over a hollow flake, hopefully a 3" bolt. Mar 21, 2014