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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed for your pleasure. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,493 total · 17/month
Shared By: ScottH on Mar 1, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Pony Keg ascends the fist/hand crack to the left of the Whipsaw arete, and is the first crack system right of Air Guitar. Scramble to a rocky ledge about 15 feet above the trail and belay near a large boulder inscribed with a memorial to Goran Kropp.

Jam your way up Pony Keg also using incut holds in the crack and on the faces of the dihedral as you go. The route begins with small hands and gets bigger as you ascend, ending with a section of wide fists. You can frequently stem to place gear and rest, but I still had a fair pump by the time I reached the anchor (shared with Whipsaw).

Protection

A handful of larger stoppers plus cams in the 1-4" range will suffice. Leave the small stuff behind. I took 2 #3s and a #3.5 and was happy to have them at the top when the crack got wide. You might be comfortable with fewer big pieces, but running things out at Vantage is not the best idea and is particularly disconcerting on the routes near Air Guitar.

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Jordan Sahlberg  
  5.9
Really fun route. The guidebook is outdated on this route. It is much cleaner than a few years back and deserves to be upgraded. If you like hand jams, get on this route. Jul 4, 2012
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
This is a fun route. I almost like it better than Air Guitar! More jamming than AG. Nov 17, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
one of the more splitter hand jam routes, a bit harder then air guitar, if you don't walk the #3's you may want 3 of them. Mar 20, 2016
Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
not sure how you could complain about the gear on this route, you can get in a bomber piece every 6 inches from the ground to the chains. Mar 8, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
FA was Max Dufford and friends, spring 1987 - same weekend we did Sinsemilla. Those guys were having a bachelor party, hence the name Dec 13, 2017

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