Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,764 total · 17/month
Shared By: ScottH on Mar 1, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Description

Pony Keg ascends the fist/hand crack to the left of the Whipsaw arete, and is the first crack system right of Air Guitar. Scramble to a rocky ledge about 15 feet above the trail and belay near a large boulder inscribed with a memorial to Goran Kropp.

Jam your way up Pony Keg also using incut holds in the crack and on the faces of the dihedral as you go. The route begins with small hands and gets bigger as you ascend, ending with a section of wide fists. You can frequently stem to place gear and rest, but I still had a fair pump by the time I reached the anchor (shared with Whipsaw).

Protection

A handful of larger stoppers plus cams in the 1-4" range will suffice. Leave the small stuff behind. I took 2 #3s and a #3.5 and was happy to have them at the top when the crack got wide. You might be comfortable with fewer big pieces, but running things out at Vantage is not the best idea and is particularly disconcerting on the routes near Air Guitar.

Photos

Jordan Sahlberg  
  5.9
Really fun route. The guidebook is outdated on this route. It is much cleaner than a few years back and deserves to be upgraded. If you like hand jams, get on this route. Jul 4, 2012
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
This is a fun route. I almost like it better than Air Guitar! More jamming than AG. Nov 17, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
one of the more splitter hand jam routes, a bit harder then air guitar, if you don't walk the #3's you may want 3 of them. Mar 20, 2016
Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
not sure how you could complain about the gear on this route, you can get in a bomber piece every 6 inches from the ground to the chains. Mar 8, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
FA was Max Dufford and friends, spring 1987 - same weekend we did Sinsemilla. Those guys were having a bachelor party, hence the name Dec 13, 2017
Mark Webster
Tacoma
Mark Webster   Tacoma
Love this route! It favors big hands and wide feet. There is no small gear at all. I take two green camalots, two red #1's, three yellow #2's, four blue #3's and two #4's. You can totally sew it up with this rack. There are a lot of super positive flakes to grab down low, and after that it's classic hand and fist jamming to the top. It does get sustained and pumpy in the fist section, but if you keep your eyes open to the sides you can find some very relaxing stem rests, right when you need them. This climb shares the anchor with Whip Saw, so be careful rigging simultaneous top ropes. At some point it needs to get it's own anchor. Oct 31, 2018
Ben Bilbrough
Beaverton, OR
  5.10b
Ben Bilbrough   Beaverton, OR
  5.10b
Very fun and well protected route. felt several grades harder than AG, but a really fun climb. Save those BD #3's for the top, you won't regret it when the pump comes on. Almost peeled, but wasn't worried about the gear holding. Nov 5, 2018