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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed for your pleasure. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: pogue
Page Views: 2,789 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

One route to the left of Stems and Seeds. Bolted arete climb, lots of bolts, one 5.10 move but all in all a fun climb. Lower off bolted anchor.

Location

The arete between Stems and Seeds and Sinsemilla.

Protection

draws

Photos

ScottH
  5.10b
ScottH  
  5.10b
I think this is more than a one move wonder. There is good 5.10 climbing several places on the climb, and it's reasonably continuous. The movement is better than many of the monotonous climbs at Vantage. Mar 8, 2006
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Very fun climbing. There's a jug and good foot-hold whenever you need it. The crux comes when you need to move from the arete, traverse left a bit and then go straight up. The route is a bit sustained, but well-protected. Nov 10, 2013
There are 2 distinct 5.10 cruxes that disrupt sustained 5.9-10a climbing. IMHO this climb deserves the original rating of 10b. It features interesting movements that break away from the typical horizontal jug pulling you find on many aretes and faces at vantage in this grade. This is a good route for the new 5.10 leader to push themselves on. Apr 18, 2014
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
 
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
 
ditto on the grade, Ford and Yoder's description is wrong, this is one of the more sustained aretes around, tougher than Boshido or Steel Pulse and definitely a few steps up from Throbbing Gristle and Whipsaw. Apr 27, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
This one really needs a anchor upgrade. While it is solid, it is stacked washers and chain.

WARNING: STAY AWAY FROM LOOSE BLOCKS ON LEFT SIDE AT TOP OUT Aug 21, 2015
Josh Baxley
Seattle, WA
 
Josh Baxley   Seattle, WA
 
Some genius drew a bunch X marks on many of the bomber holds. I tried skipping these holds thinking they were actually loose and nearly pitched off. I think perhaps said person believes X means "awesome jug" and not "sketchy loose hold". Oct 12, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Hopefully you brushed off the chalk? Oct 12, 2015
Josh Baxley
Seattle, WA
 
Josh Baxley   Seattle, WA
 
Just the important one at the crux.
We also tried to tighten up a few of the bolts as many hangers are not just loose but significantly separated from the wall. Unfortunately the bolts can't be easily tightened without a ratchet extender, but we did our best. Oct 13, 2015
Connor Culver
Bellingham, WA
 
Connor Culver   Bellingham, WA
 
Really fun route. I thought it was a pretty sustained 5.10a climb. Definitely 5.10b in a couple sections between bolts. Watch out for the jugs that are on loose rock. Some of the bolts are pretty loose but it is really well protected. Nov 13, 2016
Gordon Seslar
Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b
Gordon Seslar   Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b
Spinning bolt hangers top to bottom make this climb a bit more spicy. May 1, 2017

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