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5.10b, Sport, 75 ft,
Avg: 2.7 from 85 votes
Washington > Central Region > Vantage (French… > Sunshine Wall > King Pins
One route to the left of
Stems and Seeds
. Bolted arete climb, lots of bolts, one 5.10 move but all in all a fun climb. Lower off bolted anchor.
The arete between
Stems and Seeds
10 bolts. Permadraws at anchor.
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Brad having a blast on Hakuna Matata
Kathryn on the lower half, nice hat!
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I think this is more than a one move wonder. There is good 5.10 climbing several places on the climb, and it's reasonably continuous. The movement is better than many of the monotonous climbs at Vantage.
Mar 8, 2006
Very fun climbing. There's a jug and good foot-hold whenever you need it. The crux comes when you need to move from the arete, traverse left a bit and then go straight up. The route is a bit sustained, but well-protected.
Nov 10, 2013
There are 2 distinct 5.10 cruxes that disrupt sustained 5.9-10a climbing. IMHO this climb deserves the original rating of 10b. It features interesting movements that break away from the typical horizontal jug pulling you find on many aretes and faces at vantage in this grade. This is a good route for the new 5.10 leader to push themselves on.
Apr 18, 2014
ditto on the grade, Ford and Yoder's description is wrong, this is one of the more sustained aretes around, tougher than Boshido or Steel Pulse and definitely a few steps up from Throbbing Gristle and Whipsaw.
Apr 27, 2014
This one really needs a anchor upgrade. While it is solid, it is stacked washers and chain.
WARNING: STAY AWAY FROM LOOSE BLOCKS ON LEFT SIDE AT TOP OUT
Aug 21, 2015
Some genius drew a bunch X marks on many of the bomber holds. I tried skipping these holds thinking they were actually loose and nearly pitched off. I think perhaps said person believes X means "awesome jug" and not "sketchy loose hold".
Oct 12, 2015
Hopefully you brushed off the chalk?
Oct 12, 2015
Just the important one at the crux.
We also tried to tighten up a few of the bolts as many hangers are not just loose but significantly separated from the wall. Unfortunately the bolts can't be easily tightened without a ratchet extender, but we did our best.
Oct 13, 2015
Really fun route. I thought it was a pretty sustained 5.10a climb. Definitely 5.10b in a couple sections between bolts. Watch out for the jugs that are on loose rock. Some of the bolts are pretty loose but it is really well protected.
Nov 13, 2016
Spinning bolt hangers top to bottom make this climb a bit more spicy.
May 1, 2017
Sustained. Not sure where the crux was. This was more sustained than 5.10c Easy Off, and has smaller edges most of the way, but Easy Off has harder crux moves. Cool climbing on the arete. Hang all draws with left hand except maybe for the last 2. Bolts are so closely spaced you could in reality clip 2 at a time. Some of chalked X's on the bomber holds that @Josh mentioned still exist - use them they're not going anywhere.
Oct 1, 2018