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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,014 total, 19/month
Shared By: Brian Hench on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

An offwidth that doesn't really require offwidth moves. Strenuous but protects really well. One of the best 5.9's at the Coulee.

Location

Between Bob's Your Uncle and Mix It Up.

Protection

A double set of cams to 3 inches, or a single set of cams and one of hexes. Takes hexes really well.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
I cleaned out a lot of loose rock on this 11/14/17. Nov 19, 2017
mark webster
Gig Harbor
 
mark webster   Gig Harbor
 
Excellent climb! It starts with some 'in your face' hand jams that protect very well in solid rock. Then it transitions to a series of pods. The pro is usually at the bottom of the pod and this means you have to figure out how to climb into the pod while the pro is at your feet. Each pod tapers down to about one inch at the bottom, so a bunch of one to two inch gear is best, like greens, reds and yellow camalots. The hardest move is a pod that has nothing to grab other than some tiny flakes. So you've got a nice rest as you work stuff out, and great gear at your chest, but pulling into that pod is quite a puzzle. The last 15 foot section to the anchor is easy. It's a finger crack supplemented with knee jams. As others have said, this climb is burly, but it's also quite safe. I brought up two #4's, three blues, 4 yellows, 2 reds and 3 greens, plus some fingers sized cams for the top section. Save the last 4 for the top. May 15, 2017
Gordon Seslar
Wenatchee, WA
 
Gordon Seslar   Wenatchee, WA
 
awesome route when the attack pigeon isn't guarding it's lair. If the pigeon is in it's lair you will get your hands pecked relentlessly, use tape or else. Oct 28, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
If you want a quality pigeon shit experience, try In To Deep next.
I adjusted the anchor on this in 2016, one bolt was very rusty, I added a bolt and chain and more chain to bolts on the right, a more direct line to the route. Feb 27, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Fun jams through 70' of pigeon shit. Jan 18, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
If you have not climbed wide cracks much, you may want a #4 and #5 Camalot, and save a .5 and .75 for the top out.
This is a burly 5.9 Oct 28, 2014
SHOPE Christian
Corvallis, OR
  5.10
SHOPE Christian   Corvallis, OR
  5.10
Challenging 5.9

Excellent climb. I found it more challenging than Sinsemilla and about equal quality fun less the pigeon crap on Steel Grill. Jan 7, 2014
Super fun route.

It is now quite clean and climbs great. Sep 9, 2012