Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,374 total · 20/month
Shared By: Brian Hench on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

An offwidth that doesn't really require offwidth moves. Strenuous but protects really well. One of the best 5.9's at the Coulee.

Location

Between Bob's Your Uncle and Mix It Up.

Protection

A double set of cams to 3 inches, or a single set of cams and one of hexes. Takes hexes really well.

Photos

Super fun route.

It is now quite clean and climbs great. Sep 9, 2012
Christian Shope
Tacoma
  5.10
Christian Shope   Tacoma
  5.10
Challenging 5.9

Excellent climb. I found it more challenging than Sinsemilla and about equal quality fun less the pigeon crap on Steel Grill. Jan 7, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
If you have not climbed wide cracks much, you may want a #4 and #5 Camalot, and save a .5 and .75 for the top out.
This is a burly 5.9 Oct 28, 2014
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Fun jams through 70' of pigeon shit. Jan 18, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
If you want a quality pigeon shit experience, try In Too Deep next.
I adjusted the anchor on this in 2016, one bolt was very rusty,
I added a bolt and chain and more chain to bolts on the right, a more direct line to the route. Feb 27, 2015
Gordon Seslar
Wenatchee, WA
 
Gordon Seslar   Wenatchee, WA
 
awesome route when the attack pigeon isn't guarding it's lair. If the pigeon is in it's lair you will get your hands pecked relentlessly, use tape or else. Oct 28, 2015
Mark Webster
Tacoma
 
Mark Webster   Tacoma
 
Excellent climb! It starts with some 'in your face' hand jams that protect very well in solid rock. Then it transitions to a series of pods. The pro is usually at the bottom of the pod and this means you have to figure out how to climb into the pod while the pro is at your feet. Each pod tapers down to about one inch at the bottom, so a bunch of one to two inch gear is best, like greens, reds and yellow camalots. The hardest move is a pod that has nothing to grab other than some tiny flakes. So you've got a nice rest as you work stuff out, and great gear at your chest, but pulling into that pod is quite a puzzle. The last 15 foot section to the anchor is easy. It's a finger crack supplemented with knee jams. As others have said, this climb is burly, but it's also quite safe. I brought up two #4's, three blues, 4 yellows, 2 reds and 3 greens, plus some fingers sized cams for the top section. Save the last 4 for the top. May 15, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
I cleaned out a lot of loose rock on this 11/14/17, so less pigeon poop will accumulate in the pods. But it may make the start a bit harder, there used to be a good jug-horn to grab, now a hand jam. Nov 19, 2017