Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Leland Windham, May, 1993
Page Views: 868 total · 14/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 22, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

OK, people say the ratings at Vantage tend to be soft. This is rated 10d in the book and I hesitate to upgrade, but it is much harder than quite a few 11a's I have done at Vantage- maybe those should be downgraded.

Approach on the right side of broken column, chimney up to first bolt.
Crux between 4th and 6th bolt. I have tried both sides of column, a bit thinner on the left, more awkward on the right- with more gear options if you want from the crack. Being in the center on tiny crimps feels more like 11a.

Location

The column arete behind a short pillar and right of Mr. Clean- 11a finger crack.

Protection

9 bolts, cams for crack, small cams up to 1-2"- perhaps the name implies this.
This now has a bolted sport clip anchor.

Photos

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
I PULLED MANY LOOSE BLOCKS NEAR THE TOP. I think it is solid now, just beware of the block on the ledge where finger crack runs up to the anchor. 3/1/17 Mar 3, 2017