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Routes in King Pins

Air Guitar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better Living Through Superior Chemical Management T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bob's Your Uncle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boschido S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brownie Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Catnip T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chemically Adjusted Reality T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips and Dips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chossmaster, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbing in the Temple of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Clip 'em or Skip 'em S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Code of the Bolt Warrior T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Commeterme T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pockets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackmaster Lambada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crossing the Delaware With Your Pants Down T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossing the Threshold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis' Pharmacist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
George and Martha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hakuna Matata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narlux S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Forget Your Friends. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Warrior S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pony Keg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red M&Ms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seven Virgins and a Mule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex With Vegetables T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shady Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinsemilla T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Grill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stroken' the Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled up in Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Throbbing Gristle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Death Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Vantage Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's my fucking crack pipe? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipsaw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witholding Evidence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Leland Windham, May, 1993
Page Views: 543 total, 12/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 22, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

OK, people say the ratings at Vantage tend to be soft. This is rated 10d in the book and I hesitate to upgrade, but it is much harder than quite a few 11a's I have done at Vantage- maybe those should be downgraded.

Approach on the right side of broken column, chimney up to first bolt.
Crux between 4th and 6th bolt. I have tried both sides of column, a bit thinner on the left, more awkward on the right- with more gear options if you want from the crack. Being in the center on tiny crimps feels more like 11a.

Location

The column arete behind a short pillar and right of Mr. Clean- 11a finger crack.

Protection

9 bolts, cams for crack, small cams up to 1-2"- perhaps the name implies this.
This now has a bolted sport clip anchor.

Photos

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
I PULLED MANY LOOSE BLOCKS NEAR THE TOP. I think it is solid now, just beware of the block on the ledge where finger crack runs up to the anchor. 3/1/17 Mar 3, 2017