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Routes in Pearly Gates

Albatross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Angelic Curses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring your Weedwacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celestial Groove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cell Phone Posse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Ate My Topo, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Pickins T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Delicious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heavens Sake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepped Up on Goofballs. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leap of Faith T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loaves of Fun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meathooks of Mercy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Milky Way S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Room For Squares T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pearly Gates T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poison Balance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pope on a Rope T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purgatory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scene is Clean, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speak No Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
TOOL TIME S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veins of Glory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A solid 40 minute hike uphill from the Snow Creek lot ends at the Pearly Gates, a crag with a couple dozen crack and slab routes from one to two pitches. The rock is an amazingly sticky fine-grained granite, unlike most other granite in the Icicle. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.12, and are generally super fun. Some routes are north facing, so this can be a good option when the rest of the canyon is too hot.

Getting There

Park at the Snow Creek lot (FS pass required), cross the bridge and take a climbers trail to the right after the aquaduct.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pearly Gates

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
The Scene is Clean
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
No Room For Squares
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Loaves of Fun
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Cloud Nine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Lost Souls
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
TOOL TIME
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 106
Celestial Groove
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Last Rites
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Veins of Glory
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Pearly Gates
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Leap of Faith
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Speak No Evil
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Hepped Up on Goofballs.
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Poison Balance
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Scene is Clean
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
No Room For Squares
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Loaves of Fun
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cloud Nine
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Lost Souls
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
TOOL TIME
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Celestial Groove
 106
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Last Rites
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Veins of Glory
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pearly Gates
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Leap of Faith
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Speak No Evil
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hepped Up on Goofballs.
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Poison Balance
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Pearly Gates »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
ScottH  
The trail to Pearly Gates begins just after the Snow Creek trail crosses the irrigation ditch; look for cairns leading off to the right. Jan 29, 2006
Watch for falling rocks at this crag. The curious and seemingly friendly goat in this area may knock rocks down on your belayer. Don't be alarmed if the goat hangs out all day with you and follows you up your route, showing off his skills. Aug 16, 2011
JimL  
How is the approach this time of year? Anyone been up there lately? Apr 16, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
As said before, the approach for this route begins just past the bridge over the irrigation ditch. Someone had placed logs across the trail, so we missed it, and couldn't cross higher up. The approach is a fairly burly uphill hike.

In the summer, this crag is shaded until about 2pm, after which everything is lit up til sundown. Aug 3, 2013
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
Summer shade until 2-3pm. Leave the Icicle creek at the first leftward turn immediatly after the irrigation canal. Follow the climbers trail about 100 yards until you see a large downed tree across the first branch of the creek, cross it, walk back down stream about 50 feet and you will regain the climbers trail to cross the second branch of the creek on a smaller log. 25 more minutes and you will at Pearly Gates. Sep 15, 2014
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
Some aggressive/territorial/habituated goats in the area. There's the usual guy with one horn who's been hanging out there for a while, but there is also a mom w/ kid who was bluff charging me and my partner while we were belaying and generally chasing us and another big party out of the area. Goats don't typically bother me too bad, but we left because of this. The mom even got in a fight with the old one-horned guy. Just a heads up! Jul 10, 2017

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