Dragons of Eden
Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2250 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||FA Wayne Wallace, Bob McGown, FFA Jens Holsten, Sol Wertkin|
|Page Views:||1,254 total, 75/month|
|Shared By:||Jon Rhoderick on Jul 28, 2016|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionDragons of Eden is one of the longest hard routes of the Stuart Range. The meat of the climbing is steep crack climbing on a gorgeous panel of granite soaring off of Aasgard Pass on the NE side of the mountain. After topping out the hard climbing a further 1500' of 5th class scrambling leads to the top.
The first two ascents added 2 pitches below the approach ramp but these are not commonly climbed.
Start off on 5th class slab and make your way to the base of the first pitch, a hand crack in darker rock
From a sloping stance, climb the hand crack which turns to lower angle fists and then climbs left to a single bolt belay.
P2 5.11 Yorkshire Gripper to Butterballs pitch
A tricky traverse move leads to a splitter on great rock. Excellent rock quality the whole pitch. Step right to a stance high up on the pitch after fun double hand cracks.
From the stance head left into a flare. After mantelling the flare a nice flake gives access to a nice ledge underneath the crux.
Head up the left side of the pillar and mantel it. Scope out the moves, place a bomber cam, and fire off a few face moves to get into a finger crack heading into a tight corner. Not a long pitch but is it short enough?
The Headwall 5.11
Move the belay up to the next ledge underneath an imposing white headwall. This can be done in anywhere from 1-3 pitches but any belays will be hanging belays. There are 3 cruxes, one at a big low roof, a double crack crux, and the final roof 20 feet from the finish. Just enough lichen on this pitch to keep it interesting.
You can rap from here with 2 X 60M ropes, or continue up the Northeast Buttress. Climb up and right from the belay for maybe 30-40 meters until you can spot a ramp system on the left (Ramp trends right). Follow this ramp for 1000+ feet, only turning left 30M from the summit around a pillar. From here make 2 35M rappels off of horns down a gully, then downclimb to get to Aasgard pass