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Routes in Dragontail Peak

Backbone Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct North Buttress WI5 M4 PG13
Dragons of Eden T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gerber-Sink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M4
Serpentine Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple Couloirs WI3 M3 Steep Snow R
West Route Mod. Snow
Type: Trad, 2250 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA Wayne Wallace, Bob McGown, FFA Jens Holsten, Sol Wertkin
Page Views: 1,254 total, 75/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Jul 28, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Dragons of Eden is one of the longest hard routes of the Stuart Range. The meat of the climbing is steep crack climbing on a gorgeous panel of granite soaring off of Aasgard Pass on the NE side of the mountain. After topping out the hard climbing a further 1500' of 5th class scrambling leads to the top.

The first two ascents added 2 pitches below the approach ramp but these are not commonly climbed.

Start off on 5th class slab and make your way to the base of the first pitch, a hand crack in darker rock

P1 5.10a
From a sloping stance, climb the hand crack which turns to lower angle fists and then climbs left to a single bolt belay.

P2 5.11 Yorkshire Gripper to Butterballs pitch
A tricky traverse move leads to a splitter on great rock. Excellent rock quality the whole pitch. Step right to a stance high up on the pitch after fun double hand cracks.

P3 5.9
From the stance head left into a flare. After mantelling the flare a nice flake gives access to a nice ledge underneath the crux.

P4 5.12a
Head up the left side of the pillar and mantel it. Scope out the moves, place a bomber cam, and fire off a few face moves to get into a finger crack heading into a tight corner. Not a long pitch but is it short enough?

The Headwall 5.11
Move the belay up to the next ledge underneath an imposing white headwall. This can be done in anywhere from 1-3 pitches but any belays will be hanging belays. There are 3 cruxes, one at a big low roof, a double crack crux, and the final roof 20 feet from the finish. Just enough lichen on this pitch to keep it interesting.

You can rap from here with 2 X 60M ropes, or continue up the Northeast Buttress. Climb up and right from the belay for maybe 30-40 meters until you can spot a ramp system on the left (Ramp trends right). Follow this ramp for 1000+ feet, only turning left 30M from the summit around a pillar. From here make 2 35M rappels off of horns down a gully, then downclimb to get to Aasgard pass

Location

From Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass and look for the distinctive headwall.

Protection

00 to #3 Camalot. Triples of finger sized to .75 are worth bringing. 70M rope or 2 60M ropes
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
Awesome route and very much worth the 3 hour walk to get up there! The crux sections are looking pretty clean but the route will get better and better with more traffic. P2 felt like 11- with stances all the way. Headwall felt like 11+, but also with stances, hand jams and jugs galore. One standout feature of the route was how well protected it was, with bomber gear available every few feet through all the difficult climbing. The gear recommendation was perfect, never used smaller than a red C3. Triples are probably only necessary if linking the headwall in one 65m mega-pitch (recommended!).

We topped out the long ledge scramble, which lacks both quality climbing and position. On the rappel descent we had a very close call when the giant slung horn at the second rappel peeled off the mountain. The gully that you are meant to rappel is completely deteriorating with no solid anchors. Luckily, from the first 35m rappel, we found that we were able to scramble skier's right along chossy ledges and reach the ground in one minute. I am generally in favor of topping a route out given the option, but in this case I would definitely rap after the headwall. Aug 17, 2017