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Routes in Midnight Rock

Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curtains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dagoba System TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ROTC T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sting, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 2,815 ft
GPS: 47.598, -120.706 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,344 total · 55/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 14, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This excellent crag is one of the best in the state. Everything from face climbs to finger cracks and plenty of wide cracks as well.

This crag is closed from April 1st through July 31st due to peregrine falcons.

Getting There

Park at the main Castle Rock parking area, and ascend the steep hill to upper castle rock. Traverse loggers ledge to the east, then ascend a long steep hill for about 45 minutes to reach Midnight Rock.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 7
Easter Overhang
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
The Sting
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
ROTC
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Stevens Pass Motel
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easter Overhang
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
The Sting
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
ROTC
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Stevens Pass Motel
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
What they don't tell you is that unless you are a 5.11+ climber for ROTC or Supercrack, or happy to climb scruffy 5.10+ then this a long steep hike for a few routes. I am usually ok with a rough alpine approach, but this one is really grueling. Also this crag needs a makeover with all the old hardware and uncertain anchors.
It is pretty hard to figure out whats what. If you get to the left end of Dead End ledge you will encounter a flake system running leftward- North Ramp, next right - a good crack above the small roof is the start of Nightingale, next are some right facing flakes leading to bolted face- to traverse right under roof out right side- Yellow bird. next right is down EXPOSED ledge to larger platform where you will see the obvious great looking Easter Overhang. Down trending ledges right you will see the 2 bolt start of Stevens Pass Motel. Sep 3, 2014
Can't say I would recommend flipflops for this approach...

In case it helps anyone, from the obvious turnoff on the trail near the top of castle rock, follow a trailish-looking trail for a couple of minutes. When it stops looking trailish, turn left and scramble up a steep drainage until you can see the trail escape to the right. There are occasional cairns the whole way although the path fades out from time to time. From here the trail is not too hard to follow and I'd say the guidebook estimate of 30-45 minutes from the turnoff to a saddle between two rocks is about right. From here it's 20ish minutes' hike/scramble to the ledge far left and partway up Midnight Rock, and then a traverse to get to most of the actual climbs. Generally more involved than I expected, although not horrendous. 5 days ago

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