Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Midnight Rock

Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curtains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dagoba System TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sting, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,077 total, 10/month
Shared By: Eric8 on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This route is located directly below ROTC. Do to some confusion in the older Leavenworth Rock guidebook people frequently get on this thinking it is the 10b approach to ROTC, that I believe that is the right most of these two routes. At 11b this is no one move wonder but an endurance crux despite a sit down ledge at the midpoint.

Its best to do a short pitch to the base of the corner and belay at the tree. From here continue up the corner, much harder than it looks, it felt like I was using every trick in the book. Hands, fists, stemming, chimney technique, I switched the side of the corner my back was on at least 3 times. If you thought this pitch was going to be 10b then your expecting crack above to be a bomber hand crack. Instead you get a slightly right trending 0.75 camalot crack. You can put your left toe in the crack but your right foot has to make use of flexing lichen covered flakes...this crack takes you to the sit down ledge.

Above the ledge grunt up an offwidth for 15ft or so feet and then tackle a hand/layback crack that would be much easier if it wasn't for all the climbing below.

Protection

I had gear to 3.5 camalot but I would not have complained if I had a #4 for the ow.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.10c/d
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.10c/d
No need to change any grades.
Mt. Project has switched to consensus ratings, with the original rating giving a little more weight. So, as more people vote on the rating, the less the original grade matters. Apr 21, 2016
Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
Okay. Should I change the grade?

I flashed several 11's in Leavenworth that weekend and this thing easily felt the hardest, so that is why I thought it was the 11-. Maybe I just missed something. Apr 21, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.10c/d
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.10c/d
I remember it as 10b, but agree it is pretty pumpy at the end and would now rate it as hard 10.

Perhaps the thinking went (back "then") that it could not be hard 10 or easy 11 because it was all hand jams. And who can fall out of a hand jam? Apr 16, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
The 2010 book says 10b for this and the right crack ( Wasp) is 10a.But the first Kramar book says Wasp is 11b, and Sting is still 10b.
FA: Jim Stuart, no date and it is not in the 1965 book so maybe between 1965 and 1968. FFA: Jim Madsen, Kim Schmitz, 1968! I wonder how they protected it, most of the wide cracks of that time had fixed wood blocks in them. May 19, 2014
GregH
San Diego, CA
 
GregH   San Diego, CA
 
BOLD: The guidebook lists this as 10b-
sandbag or not this thing will get you flash pumped if you don't typically warm up on 5.11 Jul 15, 2011
We always called this climb 10b, so not sure how it got to be a 11b. It is defintely physical but the jams are all there. Jul 14, 2011